15:34.190S 146:24.359W - Pirates of the Tuamotus
Irene IV - World Adventure
Louis Goor
Thu 21 Apr 2022 19:09
Pirates of the Tuamotus
Having been the radio net controller yacht for the long passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas, we felt very connected to our fellow Oyster World Rally participants. The relationships were solidified further at the fabulous party in Nuku Hiva on 8th April. We were treated to a native dance extravaganza, where a costume malfunction on the part of the male dancers might have been very embarrassing! Seated in the front row, next to my wonderful Irish friends from sailing yacht Ocean Pearl, Mary and Sarah, I was sweat spray distance from said muscular, sparsely clad, all over-tattooed male dancers! We were spell bound. The male dancers gave it their all, their sleek bodies glistening and rippling in sync with the drumming and guttural chanting. After a delicious local feast, including, goat, fish, shellfish, and salads, we danced late into the night to the sounds of 70s and 80s music, delighted to get some vigorous exercise!
The difference between the Marquesas and the Tuamotus is striking. The former, featuring tall sharp peaks, the latter, low lying sandy panoramas. The progression from high volcanic islands (Marquesas) through barrier reef (Society Islands, Tahiti) to atoll (Tuamotus) is a sequence of gradual subsidence. The steep Marquesas are relatively young, over time a coral reef forms around their perimeter in these warm tropical seas, resulting in a barrier reef. Over millennia the coral reef builds, and the conical center of the island sinks, forming a barrier reef. Further descending over many more thousands of years causes the center to fall below the surface, forming a calm warm water lagoon. The encircling coral reef continues to grow often topped with a “motu”, a sandy mound, which grows little other than palm trees with scant fresh water.
Our first view of the Tuamotus came early on the morning of the 14th April. It is tricky to enter the Tuamotu lagoons in the centre of these atolls, as the openings are narrow and hence subject to rushing tidal activity. It is advised to always enter with the sun at your back, close to slack on a rising or falling tide. We calculated that 10:00 was the appointed hour and set forth. Nick and I on the bow, on the lookout for bombies or any other dangers, Enda watching the depth gauge and reporting to Rob on the wheel and Louis directing proceedings. The entry into Raroia was bumpy with a higgledy piggledy sea state, luckily well-marked, opening into turquoise and tranquil lagoon. We had reached a new kind of paradise! We anchored, washed the boat down and went ashore to explore. We chit chatted with Gérard proprietor of the sole “magasin” in the village. We walked along a deserted runway, in a perfectly maintained airport, which welcomes one flight a week, for locals, visitors and supplies. A happy rencontre, we met Amelie on her meandering way home from work at the airport. She invited us to her house, to meet her husband, Nash, and stunningly beautiful little toddler, Christine. The Tuamotu Archipelago is the largest group of coral atolls in the world, 75 in all. Life here was, for a time, very hard, but latterly with the rise of the black pearl fisheries with heavy global demand, especially in China and Japan, the atolls are experiencing great economic growth. We bought many a charming piece created by Amelie, to share with our friends back home, as well as some delicious local honey. Later that day we were joined at anchor by Intrepid, a boat of beauty, with a grey hull and red tipped, black sails. They also visited Amelie. She has done well this week!
After a wholesome breakfast of tropical fruit, granola, yogurt, and the yummy local honey next morning, we set off to our next atoll destination, Fakarava. Intrepid had departed moments before us. Once we had successfully navigated the exit channel, with crew taking their assigned positions, Louis hailed Trevor, Intrepid owner, on the VHF radio. He explained that 2 boats going to the same destination at the same time of day, were officially racing! Trevor took the bait, agreed to the terms, loser buys dinner, winner buys beer! Virtual hands were shaken, and the duel began! Rob was on fire, trimming sails, adding sails, taking sails down, altering course, adjusting the pole, looking through his binoculars to check up on the competition, Irene IV crew hung on his every word, obeying commands, ever so respectfully requested. The gap was closing, Intrepid crew were worried, they are after all a bigger boat, with a state-of-the-art carbon fibre rig. As we passed, to windward, stealing their wind, we donned our pirate gear, raised the skull and cross bones flag, putting the fear of God into them, growling, and snarling as we sped past. The pirates of the Tuamotus had struck in brutal force! We arrived in Fakarava comfortably ahead of Intrepid after a day and half of intense combat.
True to the terms of the battle, on Sunday 17th April, we were treated to an Easter feast aboard Intrepid, with only some wine supplied by us!