Arrival in Galapagos

 At 02:30 on the morning of the 28^th February, Irene IV, engine switched on, made her way gingerly into the ominously named, Wreck Bay, on the island of San Cristobal, in the Galapagos Archipelago. After a 6-day relaxing passage from Panama City, the bright lights of San Cristobal were blinding, making it difficult to spot the navigation marks that lead to the transit channel into the bay. Conveniently, a small cruise ship, a short distance ahead of us, provided an electronic track to follow – a huge advantage of electronic navigation equipment. Accompanied of all sides by a welcoming committee of stealthy, night hunting sealions, Irene IV was safely at anchor by 04:20.

It is common knowledge around here that bold and curious sealions often enjoy a nap on the platform at the stern of a boat! We rigged, what we thought was a sealion proof barrier, consisting of 4 carefully placed fenders. because the cute, but unwelcome guests are very smelly. The crew repaired to their cabins for a few hours’ sleep before the throngs of Galapagaian officials were due to arrive onboard at 08:30.

An hour or so later, Louis abruptly awoke to the sounds of a sealion, having breached the barrier, skulking unabashedly aboard, seeking the most comfortable lounging spot. Claps, stomps, and shouts shooed the creature back into his ocean home. Louis was a little shaken. Visions of a sealion falling down the stern hatch, into his bed, as he slept, were the stuff of his nightmares. Further barricades were erected, involving more fenders and lines, masquerading as barbed wire around a prison camp, across the stern gate. We never quite stopped all determined sealions from stealing 40 winks aboard Irene IV, but at least they always stayed on the transom platform, never penetrating onto the deck again. News of the ferocious captain Louis had spread like wildfire in sealion circles!

The entire Galapagos Island Archipelago is a protected national park. Total biological isolation over many millions of years has created a unique ecosystem on the islands. An ever-increasing resident population and a thriving tourist industry has made the exceptional ecosystem vulnerable. For this reason, it is an arduous process gaining entry on a sailing vessel. Paperwork and fees had been demanded and delivered many months in advance. A local agent is required to advise and guide you through the laborious process, so the services of Antonio Moreano, of Seamasters, had been engaged well ahead of time. He warned us of the large number of officials that would board Irene IV, in order to satisfy entry regulations. They numbered 14 in all!

At 08:30 sharp, the first group of officials arrived onboard Irene IV - 2 nurses, Antonio, plus a customs and immigration agent. The crew had washed sleepy dust out of their eyes, dressed in sweet smelling clothing and looked very presentable. Coffee and freshly baked brownies were proffered and voraciously consumed as Louis signed document after document. The next clutch was welcomed at 09:30. Two officials inspected our fridges, and fruit and vegetable stores while 3 divers examined the hull for barnacles and other foreign bodies that might harm the delicate local environment. A microscopic flying insect was found hovering on a lime, it was cleverly captured and proudly displayed to all who had good enough eyesight. 3 limes were confiscated. Insect and limes would be closely examined and studied back in the lab. A national park ranger and assistant, and our agent’s second in command, rounded out the numbers of group number 2 to a cool 6. Signage is a requirement, pointing out the locations of organic garbage, recyclable garbage and non-recyclable garbage. Irene IV passed this test with flying colours! More coffee and brownies were served, additional documents were signed, and passports further reviewed. Conchita and Juan Carlos, visitors number 3, arrived at 11:00, to book tours of the various islands and special sites. Nobody is permitted to explore without a registered tour guide. By 13:30, an exhausted Irene IV crew bid farewell to the final pair, with coffee stores seriously depleted and 1 solitary brownie remaining. The yellow quarantine flag was lowered, and the crew was free to go ashore and explore.