12:05:519S 96:52:985E Two weeks in Indonesia

Shaya Moya
Don & Susan Smyth
Tue 23 Sep 2014 13:14
After checking into Bali with the usual customs run around on Saturday we headed to Villa Sagita that Sue had arranged in the mountains near Ubud. We were laden with not only our luggage but also some 60 bottles of specially selected New Zealand wine that Sue and I had collected on our wine route road trip earlier this year. We had it stored under the floorboards of the boat so that it was not confiscated by customs. They did not even come to the boat!
 
What a great place the villa was. We settled in to wait for the girls who had just flown in from South Africa via Singapore. That evening was spent catching up while sipping sundowners and relaxing in the infinity pool. The villa was fabulous. We each had our own rooms and congregated on the patio by the pool playing scrabble, reading and chatting. The villa staff made us breakfast every morning and cooked local Indonesian dishes for dinner.
 
 
Bali is one of 17,500 odd islands that make up the Indonesian archipelago sitting just 8 degrees below the equator between Java and Lombok in Southeast Asia. Whilst Indonesia has the worlds largest Muslim population, Bali is 95% Hindu. A gentle and devout people whose culture is one of tolerance and consideration for all things. There is a contradiction in this as they are denuding the rainforests to produce wonderful Balinese wooden doors, friezes carvings etc. The condition of the dogs, cock fighting, caging of wild birds and general squallor is pitiful to see.
 
We were not going to let this hinder us in our two week holiday and were soon being driven around Bali by Ketut, the girls taxi driver from the airport. He was to become our tourguide for the week on Bali. We visited Hindu temples, art galeries, wood carving and silversmith jewellery stores. We even tasted the worlds most expensive coffee, Lewak coffee. The beans are harvested on the ground after they have been passed through the digestive sytem of a civet cat! Best of all Ketut found us wonderful places to eat lunch in the rice padi fields and in the middle of Ubud. Needless to say being foodies we enjoyed the Indonesian fare, washed down with good Kiwi wine and for some of us the local Bintang beer.
 
 
Driving here is not for the faint hearted with literaly hundreds of motorbikes weaving in and out on both sides of the road with up to four passengers at times. Madness, but we never heard a hooter blown in anger or saw any road rage. Everyone just sort of blended together and got on with it.
 
 
The following Monday we left Ubud in two taxis, one for us and the other with the luggage bound for the little port of Padang Bai on the east coast. Here we boarded a fast boat that took us to Gili Trawangan, one of three small islands off the north west of Lombok. Getting on the boat was a challenge in itself as they dont have any system for getting passengers off the boat while those getting on wait. A bun fight. On arrival at Gili Trawangan we were in for another surprise as there is no jetty to disembark. The boat noses up to the beach and a ladder is put over the bow onto the beach. 
 
There to meet us were Wayan and Arya from The Gili Beach Resort, our villa for the next week. The island has no motorised transport and getting around is by pony cart. There were three waiting for us. What a journey. The coast road has been washed away between the ferry port and North Beach where our villa was located so we were taken across the island on a sand and gravel track through the local village. The cart goes like the clappers and what with luggage, wine and us it was a bumpy and wild ride. We arrived at our little place of paradise and all concerns over getting here evaporated. Sue had again done us proud. We were overlooking the sea with our own private beach. The villa was fabulous.
 
Decisions to be made in the morning were do we swim in the pool or the sea. Where should we laze away the rest of the day, on the sunbeds on the beach or by the pool. We ordered lunch from the retaurants just up the road, delivered to our villa. Sundowners on the beach watching the sun setting behind the volcano on Bali across the channel. Ambling along the sand road deciding which of the many restuarants to eat dinner. They all had tables on the beach.
 
The island is only 3km by 2km and is ringed by a path alongside the sea. Roger and Ted took the villa bicycles and cycled around the island buying some groceries for a spaghetti dinner. We walked to Central beach where it is hip and happening. Here are the backpackers, tourists, dive shops, restuarants and most of the locals plying their trade. It is not the place to be, hectic and grubby. But we did find a couple of very nice restuarants where we had great seafood, steaks and Ted's lamb shank.
 
All too soon the two weeks were over and we were climbing back up the ladder onto the fast boat from the beach back to Padang Bai on Bali. Here we said our farewell to the girls who were catching flights out of Bali that evening while we headed back to the boat. Tom had prepared Shaya Moya so that we could leave immediately. By night fall we were well on our way out at sea, while the girls were sipping Hendricks gin and eating lamb chops at the Inter Continental near the airport.
A fitting way to end a great holiday.