17:35.191S 149:36.965W Rangiroa to Tahiti

Shaya Moya
Don & Susan Smyth
Wed 20 Jul 2011 22:44
Dear Diary... I know I haven't written in a while and I'm sorry. I will try to make it up to you now.
 
We've been very busy since the last blog entry and there's so much to write. So here we go...
 
 
We arrived in Rangiroa on the 11th  after 559nm 79 hours of sailing. Unfortunately we couldn't sail all the way because there was just not enough wind but we made good time and were in Rangiroa by midday. The atoll is absolutely amazing. A picture-perfect paradise. We had already read that the diving in Rangi was really good so we decided to visit a dive centre and book two dives. After the first dive with Paradive Dive Club, two dives became four dives became five dives.
 
How the big boys roll                                                                                            Pacific slime and barnacles
 
The diving in Rangi was very different to anything we've done before. They've got a fantastic drift dive which allows you to cover a huge distance and explore small gullies and caves, all while surrounded by hundreds of black-tip, white-tip and Grey sharks. The dives were alot of fun and a great experience. The dives were very long some upto almost 70 minutes and on one dive we were down around 40m. Rangiroa is famous for their Dolphin. We were told that it was the first time in four years that the dive masters had done more then four dives without seeing the local dolphins. So we broke a record, but we're not celebrating. 5 dives 0 Dolphins. Oliver the dive-master felt so bad about the dolphins after the first four dives that he organized a chum dive for us, he then grabbed a rather large white-tip shark by the tail and flipped it over onto it's back for a snooze. IT was an amazing thing to see especially so close-up.
Paradive Club                                                                                                    Cyril "French" aka Dolphinater on a rainy day for a dive
 
The people at the dive club were really very friendly and we got along great with them so on our last night in Rangi they invited us out to their local restaurant for drinks and dinner. It was and absolute blast and Cyril, one of the divemasters, entertained us all evening. He's the best type of Frenchman, loves to laugh at himself and his country. He also looks a little like inspector Clueso. They showed us dolphin videos, just to rub it in, and invited us to return as soon as possible.
 
The Last Supper in Rangi with the Paradive crew                                                    Early Morning departure Rangiroa
 
We stayed in Rangi for three days and it was certainly our favourite stop so far. Highly recommended for divers and honeymooners.
 
Then it was off to Tahiti, just over 200 miles. Getting out of Rangiroa was the most exciting part of the whole trip so far. We thought to time our departure as the tide was going out through the pass, which we did. We didn't however expect the wind to be howling in through the pass, so as a result we found ourselves bashing through 6ft breaking waves in a narrow pass with Captain Courageous behind the wheel and The Boss shouting directions from below the spray dodger so as not to get wet. Well that didn't work... a wave literally broke in the cockpit soaking the two of us and forcing us to close the companion-way. It was wet n' wild for a whole 8min and then we settled back down into the usual routine.
 
Paradise : Rangiroa                                                                                            Trying to leave paradise... As if even the sea wanted us to stay.
 
Just over 24 hours of really good sailing and we arrived in Tahiti. We cruised through the channel entry and across the lagoon to find Shaya Moya's Marina berth well prepared and the staff here waiting for us. It's probably the most professional outfit we've seen since leaving Rodney Bay in St Lucia. Once we'd tied up and had just settled down to a landing drink, two South Africans popped up on the jetty and we got to chatting. We eventually invited some folks for drinks onboard which then turned into a fantastic evening. We even managed to get rid of some of our freezer food so we could switch it off when we leave the boat.
 
Sunrise on the morning we arrived in Tahiti...                                                        Sunset over Taina Bay Marina Tahiti, taken from the top of our mast
 
On that first evening we met John and Mary-Andre from a catamaran called Sete Mares, they're also doing the same trip so Dad's got a new mate to chat to about weather and tidal charts. They'll all be here for a while still cruising up and down the islands so we'll probably see them when we get back. We've also met crew from a charter boat called Concerto that will be based in Tahiti until October when they leave for New Zealand. It seems that a lot of the boats here are headed for New Zealand and it's nice to think that we'll see some of our new friends again soon.
 
The first night in Tahiti... With John and Mary-Andre from Sete Mares                      Gordon and Paul from "Concerto" in their matching outfits on our 3rd night in Tahiti
 
As for the two of us we've been chin-deep in chores for the last three days. The jobs list has been steadily worked away at, and now on the third day just hours before we head for the airport there's light at the end of the tunnel. The boat's looking brand-new and has all her covers on for the months rest here in Tahiti. I'm off to Switzerland till the 11th, then Lea and I go to Las Vegas for a few days and on to LA for a few more before we both fly to Tahiti for two weeks. Unfortunately Lea then has to go back to work, and the lonely days start again. Dad's not sure of his plans yet. He's definatly going to Switzerland where Ryan will join him for a week. After that he's not sure how long he's going to SA for but he'll probably be back in Tahiti by the end of August.
 
This will be the last boat blog until the 28th August when we should be back onboard, provisioning and getting ready for the next and final leg of our amazing journey. New Zealand here we come!!