Grenada 12.00N 61.45W

Shaya Moya
Don & Susan Smyth
Thu 20 Jan 2011 22:53

Dear Family and Friends

 

I have been in the Caribbean for a month now and must apologise for the lack of communication.  It was good to take the time to kick back and take a technology break.  I am currently uploading some photos on Facebook so those of you who are interested can take a peak

 

We had a quiet Christmas with Reece and Lea in St Lucia.  Don booked us into a fabulous hotel for the night (www.ladera.com) where we had a room with an open front overlooking the Pitons in Soufriere.  What a wonderful view of the bay and the sea below us.  We were entertained by a local West Indies choir and then enjoyed a delicious meal in the hotel restaurant.  The owner, an American of 83, Ralph Hooper regaled us with his stories.  A generous flowing of Champagne………..

 

 

We left St Lucia and headed south to S t Vincent where we spent two nights  on anchor in Cumberland Bay getting to know some locals at a beach bar and restaurant called “Rough and Rogged”.  Rough and rugged it was indeed.  Loads of rastas smoking more pot than you can ever imagine but we arranged to have a cooking lesson there the next day.  We took along the beef and chicken and they supplied the pork and vegetables and rice.  In the end we fed about 20 people and it was great fun.  Elma the owner is the life and soul of the place and she makes magic in the most rudimentary facility with electricity but no running water.   Reece played cricket with the guys all afternoon.  The bat hand crafted from a tree stump and a brand new Wilson tennis ball.

 

 

On the 27th we headed to Young Island Cut where we spent the night searching for a restaurant that hadn’t run out of food.  No luck ended up with sandwiches.  But early the next day we headed off as there was nothing of great interest or beauty to keep us there.  We arrived in the azure blue waters of Tobago Cays where it is so clear you can see the bottom and the beaches are beautiful and famous for the turtles.  It is a National Park so there are no buildings ashore and no one lives on the islands at all. Most pristine and beautiful place so far by far.  The only downfall is that you are constantly pestered by traders on boats all with something to offer.  The banana bread man was most welcome, the rip off fruit and veg man, Mr Wonderful, not so welcome.  It becomes a pain after a few hours.  We went ashore the next evening for a lobster bbq – Don could not look as they placed them still crawling onto the hot grill.  He put aside all thoughts of becoming vegetarian when the beasts covered in garlic butter arrived on the table.  Even Lea the non fish eater tucked in.  During the meal we watched the sun set and felt blessed.

 

Next day we dropped in for the night on the private island of Mustique.    Famous playground for the rich and famous home owners like Mick Jagger, Princess Margaret (RIP),  Raquel Welsh, David Bowie.  Reece and Lea glammed up and headed out to Basil’s bar hoping to see and be seen.  They came home disappointed that Basil offered lousy food and bad service.

Then we sailed on to Bequia Island.  This was our favourite Caribbean island from our visit 14 years ago aboard the dreaded Song of Grace.  New Year’s eve at the Gingerbread restaurant with local steel band.  The night was wet wet wet.  Finally landed up at Jacks beach bar where we saw the year out and 2011 in.  Next day Reece managed to find 3 friends that he had met on the beach 14 years ago.  A miracle as he only remembered their first names.  But someone told someone who was an aunt and a cousin and so the word got around and they managed to meet up.  He was delighted and so were they.  They remembered driving around on a rubber dinghy for days with a white boy whose mom bought them pizza every day. 

 

Three more days in Bequia and we then said our farewells to Lea who had to get back to work.  She left in shorts with a huge bag of hand luggage containing coat, hat, gloves and scarf, as well as boots and leg warmers.  We will miss her happy smiling face and long for her return.

 

We left for Mayreau where we anchored late afternoon in Salt Whistle Bay.  It was shallow and we had to get up close to other boats which is never a good idea.  Low and behold during our meal the anchor dragged and the rain pelted down and we had a quick move to the mouth of the bay where we had a very bumpy and uncomfortable night.  Out of there at the crack of dawn and just around the corner found Chatham Bay.  It was calm and comfortable and right there - just our luck.  Anyhow stayed for two days and swam and snorkelled and relaxed.  The fish of the reef were great and there were so few boats we had the reef to ourselves.  Reece made chums on the beach and ended up singing a couple of numbers with a guitarist who only had about 3 strings tuned.  It was fun but mind boggling to see what the strong rum is doing to this nation.  Ninety per cent alcohol – it should be banned.

 

We arrived in Grenada and moored up at the True Blue marina.  Now none of you can understand but let me tell you, you can get whip lash in your sleep.  When the swells are so big that the rope to shore pulls back so tight you hit your head on the head board at 30 second intervals.  Next morning we attached old tyres between the two ends of the rope.  Much better but still rough.  We took Reece to the airport and how we will miss him.

 

We have now moved to Martin’s Marina in a bay called Secret Harbour.  Getting here only took 30 minutes but you will be surprised how many times I nearly killed myself in that short time.  The swells were so big and I forgot to get boat shoes so I was thrown around on the helm from side to side while Don got the fenders ready.  It was tricky as the water only 5 metres deep in most of the area we had to cross and as we ride up the swell and crash down the other side we need more water to do that safely.  We had to come through a few reefs and very shallow areas but now we in and its calm and safe.  The wind has blown like crazy and it has rained every day, short sharp showers that last 15 minutes or so and then hot sun shine in between.  Opening and closing the windows and hanging out and bringing in the washing is a full time occupation.

 

At last today the generator man arrived to look at why our generator is operating intermittently.  He took pieces away and brought them back and at least when he was done there were no pieces left over – the test is about to commence.  If we lucky we will be able to leave here next Tuesday and head back north.  We are aiming to be in Antigua in a week or so.  Annie is coming from Tampa Florida and Reece is coming back for a while. 

 

There is talk of my two boys sailing this boat through the Panama canal and over the Pacific ocean from May.  It has not been decided but there is talk, much talk.  If this is to happen we will head for Puerto Rica and Cuba after the British Virgin Islands and then head down to Panama thus avoiding dangerous area like Venezuela, Columbia, etc. in other words going north before heading west and then south.

So on that note I leave you…….. be safe, be well, be in touch!!

 

Love

Sue and the Captain