This was a leg one did not need, as it lacked wind. We motored for two full days, some 320nm from Fernando de Noronha to Fortaleza on the north Brazilian coast. It was a boring trip, dodging cargo ships going around the bulge of Brazil, squalls that did not quite help us sail and not much current to help us along. The only reason to stop in Fortaleza is to refuel which we could not do in Fernando. Our intention is to take on fuel and leave straight away.

Late Monday afternoon we have the breakwater of Fortaleza’s marina in sight. Called Tim on Folie a Deux, an American family also doing the World ARC with us, on the VHF radio for berthing advice as they were already in the marina. He was in touch with the marina manager Armondo, who speaks very little English, trying to organise a fuel barge for us. Brian, Tim's son speaks Spanish and was the official interpretor. After much confusion about whether there is even a barge we were advised to anchor in the entrance to the Marina just inside the outer breaker, and wait for morning. With a damaged tender there was of course no ways we were going to be able to go ashore, so it was landing drinks and dinner onboard.

There was a large schooner sail training yacht  called Argo anchored with us. It was inspiring to watch the crew working with about 20 odd teenagers, stowing sails and putting up awnings getting ready for the night. What a wonderful experience this must be.  Apparently the yacht circumnavigates the world taking on a compliment of teenagers for various legs every year.

The next morning we woke early, and with Tim and his son Brian and Derick from the yacht alongside, we managed to anchor stern to the dock.  Brian very kindly got on his canoe and took a long line to the breakwater opposite us to help keep us off the steel boat next to us. By the time we had finished mooring it was late morning and we were none the wiser on how we were going to refuel. If there is no fuel barge we are in trouble as we do not carry jerry cans.

Now let me tell you about the marina development in Fortaleza. The write up in the cruising guides describe it as a safe haven where up to 100 boats can moor stern to a floating dock complete with electricity and water. This was obviously what the original development was, however there has been no ongoing maintenance or repairs to the facilities.

What had not been taken into account was old Mother Nature herself. The swell at spring tides( this is when the low and high tides are at their maximum), is about 3-4 metres. The dock design just could not cope and the metal floating pontoons that ride up with the tide on concrete pillars are distorted and broken. Half of them have sunk and there is only about a third of the dock that is semi usable. The electricity is an extension cord wrapped between the pontoons and the locals advise against using the water.

Home has been a 40ft catamaran for the Ramsey family, Tim and Tracey, and their two teenagers, Brian and Lucy, on Folie a Deux, who are on the last leg of their two year circumnavigation. Imagine their horror when they docked here a few days ago at spring tide. They were literally off the boat for an hour or so when the 3m swell bashed the transom of their boat up against the rickety dock, holing the one pontoon and destroying the dinghy that they were using as a bridge to the dock.  Thank goodness they were able to help and advise us not to be in a similar position. We left about 5m between us and the dock. We also used our tender as a bridge, although a very wet one as it rapidly filled up with seawater, with just the pontoons keeping it afloat. Luckily a local staying on a motor boat was able to help them repair the holed pontoon enough for them to carry on to Florida.

Finally it became apparent that there was not going to be a fuel barge. Tim kindly loaned us 4X20litre jerry cans, and Derick on the boat alongside, loaned us an half a dozen of his. We hired a taxi who took two trips to the local filling station giving us 600 litres which together with the 200 odd we have gives us enough to get to the Caribbean.

We took the crew from next door and the Ramsey family to dinner in the hotel restaurant that night as a thank you for all their assistance. A small price to pay for what could have transpired into a calamity of events. The hotel is part of the marina development and belies the sorry state of the marina.

We slipped moorings on Wednesday the 25th of February (Christine Bennetts birthday- Happy Birthday Christine) and motored out to sea for the 1700nm next leg to Grenada in the Caribbean, with a renewed faith in our fellow man.