We set off from Pula at 20:00, heading initially for Isola Vulcano at the east end of Sicily, then changing course for Isola Stromboli, a little further north. We knew that gales were forecast for Sardinia and Corsica, due to arrive in about 48 hours’ time, and were hoping to be well on our way to Sicily (where there were no gales forecast) by the time that came through. We motor-sailed the first 24 hours, with the monotony broken by a little shipping to keep us awake.

Things got a bit more exciting with a loggerhead turtle sighting, rapidly followed by a large fish making off with our sparkly pink squid lure. Once we got it on board, we were able to identify lunch and tea for the next few days as an Albacore tuna (Thunnus alalunga).

David reeling the fish in.

Albacore tuna.

Lunch and tea for the next few days.

Isola Ustica

At midnight the next day, the forecast weather from the Gulf of Lion started to catch up with us – the wind increased to about 15 knots and we were able start sailing properly.

CAPE under sail.

By 06:00 the next day, the wind had swung around to the N/NW and increased to 20 knots. By 08:00, we were getting warnings of a NW force 7 (winds up to 38 miles an hour, and 4–5.5-metre waves – pretty scary as far as I’m concerned) in our particular bit of sea so we put the second reef in the main and headed for Isola Ustica, a small island north of Palermo. In the event, we had a force 6 (winds up to 30 miles an hour, and 3–4-metre waves) before we got out of the way of the weather.

Isola Ustica.

The lighthouse on the north-east corner of Isola Ustica.

At midday, we sailed into sunshine and calm water in the lee of the island.

The harbour at Isola Ustica.

As the harbour is small – and being redeveloped – there wasn’t any room for us, so after a couple of abortive attempts at getting into small parking spaces, we ended up going back out of the harbour and rafting up to a fishing boat alongside the old ferry quay. It was great to be still.

FATIMA and ORIZZONTE

We are currently rafted up to FATIMA, with a bow line to ORIZZONTE.

CAPE rafted up to FATIMA, with bow line to ORIZZONTE.

Both boats are based in Syracuse on the south coast of Sicily, and are long liners – fishing for tuna and swordfish using individually baited hooks on long lines – 40 miles of line to be precise. The fishermen (mainly Italian with some Egyptian crew) have also come in out of the weather and have adopted us and are force-feeding us tuna, squid, steak, pasta with chilli, garlic and ricci di mare (sea urchin), bread, wine, etc. We had lunch on CAPE when we first tied up, but the crews were BBQing squid and tuna on the quay and called us over and insisted on feeding us again – then again when we walked back from exploring the town later that evening. They seem delighted to have someone to entertain, and we have been given a guided tour of ORIZZONTE.

Eating ‘al fresco’ with the crews of FATIMA and ORIZZONTE.

We had lunch on board with them today – but we had at least got organized and I made them a fruit cake to say thanks, and we’ve been able to supply some wine and beer.

Sunday lunch on board ORIZZONTE.

Our Italian is being pushed to the limit – conversations are a bit like playing charades with mime and sounds, the odd drawing thrown in, and lots of laughing. They definitely seem happiest when they are feeding us, and it’s very hard to refuse (you've seen the Vicar of Dibley Xmas lunch episode...) – we hope that they leave before we explode!