Boat ablutions

We took advantage of the uncrowded boatyard and cheap prices in Smir to get CAPE lifted out to hang in the slings while we inspected her bottom. We checked our anodes, changed the prop (for a bigger, go-faster one), and did a full oil change in the leg (we have a sail-drive rather than a shaft).

The ‘before’ shot – CAPE’s slimy nether regions emerging from the water.

“Do you think we can get her to balance on her keel on this bit of wood?”

Bethany and Bryn leaving their mark in the primordial slime on the bits of CAPE where the sun doesn’t shine.

To be fair, considering we hadn’t antifouled CAPE since we put her in the water in April 2006, the stuff had done its job and – apart from a few barnacles here and there – her bottom was only a bit slimy. We chipped off the barnacles and then had her pressure washed. Mr Pressure Washer took his job very seriously and any trace of antifoul has now gone – it will be interesting to see what has grown there next time we lift her out.

Pressure washing the wildlife off CAPE’s bottom – the boat equivalent of having your bikini line waxed I guess!

The ‘after’ shot – the motley crew and CAPE’s squeaky clean bottom.

Once back in the water, we started the engine to the sound of a squealing alternator belt and the smell of hot rubber. A quick inspection revealed that the bracket holding the alternator had snapped. Luckily, John ‘Two Boats’ (LORD JIM and MARY HILLIER) happened to be passing and he showed David the way to the workshops where we were able to get the part welded. We had been told by Pat and Mike (EL LOBO) to look out for John who was a mine of information about lots of things boatie as well as finding our way around in Morocco. We spent lots of time with him over the next few days (of course cold beer was involved).  

Sardines in M’Diq

Getting around in Morocco is great fun – when you need a taxi, you just stand by the side of the road and as a taxi approaches, you stick your fingers in the air to show the driver how many places you need. If they have room (they take 6 passengers – 2 in the front plus the driver, and 4 in the back), they stop, if not, they carry on! Buses are regular, cheap and squished, with not even standing room. The bus conductor (hey – remember those!) gets on at the front and off at the back as he works his way down the aisle to sell you your ticket. We didn’t come across any chickens being transported by bus, but I'm sure you could take a chicken along if you wanted to.

We went to the next town (M'Diq) on the bus and had sardines and prawns for lunch in the fishing harbour.

The Big Daddies of the M’Diq sardine fishing fleet…

And the little tiddlers…

Sardines or prawns with salad and bread.

Lunch, including drinks, came to 90 dirhams (less than €9) for the four of us.

Boy, do we know how to make a mess of the tablecloth (well, sheet of paper).

Only in Morocco

We went to Cabo Negro to Jackie and Stu’s (MYMAX) apartment for a night of luxury. Getting there was a bit traumatic as the complex has been refurbished and renamed so that the taxi driver didn’t know where we wanted to go. He abandoned us outside a likely looking set of apartments in the middle of nowhere, so we ended up walking (in the heat of the day, with a rucksack apiece plus assorted other bags) the 3 km to the nearest habitation. After a few frantic ‘phone calls to Jackie to confirm the name of the place, and to the agent in Morocco to confirm what it used to be called, we found a taxi driver who knew where we wanted to go. When we got there, we only had a large denomination note (200 dirhams, which is less than €20) and he didn’t have change, so a passing local paid him and we arranged to leave the money for him at the gate (only in Morocco!).

We luxuriated in air conditioning, REAL beds, and a private bathroom. The children expanded to fill the wardrobes and drawers with all their worldly possessions – it turned out that Chocolate Moose, and all of the Lil’ Bratz had come along for the visit too!

Chocolate Moose snuggling in for a night in a REAL bed.

Sorry, these aren’t our kids.

Bethany even informed me that there was an ironing board if I fancied doing a spot of ironing!

The Lil’ Bratz (plus their surf board, beach toys, dinghy and sleeping bags) weren’t going to miss out on this trip!

We had a superb meal on the roof terrace of a nearby restaurant, retiring back to the apartment to veg in front of Wales Today and a re-run of Globe Trekker on the Travel Channel with a bottle of wine (Ian Wright and Justine Shapiro – we still love you), while the kids had their turn in front of CBeebies the next morning. It was bliss! (Yes I did resist the urge to do any ironing). We headed back the next day to CAPE’s list of things to do. Thank you Jackie and Stu’ for that night of indulgence!

The to-do list

We have been hiding an embarrassing secret under a chopping board in the galley – a gaping hole where the top-loading bin used to be. The nifty bin-lid-and-bag-holder thingy disintegrated before we left Portimão, and despite constant whingeing from me, David has resisted all of my efforts to get him to sort it out. (I hadn’t resorted to crying yet, but that was the next phase of my plan.) While I made two more mozzie nets for the hatches, David finally replaced the work surface with the stainless steel sheet that we had been carrying around with us since Portugal.

The top-loading saucepan cupboard – perfect for the discerning yottie’s crumb collection.

Our shiny new stainless steel worktop going into position.

I think it would be nice to have all the galley work surfaces and splashbacks done like this…

Gib’ to Morocco Rally and the ‘Peanut Cup’

Marina Smir sprang to life with the arrival of the Gib’ to Morocco Rally 2008. The kids issued a ‘kid alert’ and went off to play. Somehow we managed to get ourselves included in the rally antics, which kicked off with logic games and juggling, followed by water games and lifeboat drills, merging into a fancy dress competition before a pontoon party with dancing and superb live bluesy jazz singing.

“Perhaps we need some glue…”

Just keep practicing Bryn!

How many people can you get into two dinghies?

The Sumo Wrestlers had the benefit of a discreetly placed fan to keep them inflated…

We were shocked and delighted to win (with Siobhan making up our team – Weird Fish) the Rally Challenge Cup. It now has pride of place in the saloon table, and is being put to good use holding nibbles (peanuts and Bombay mix), re-christened as the Peanut Cup.

Team Weird Fish being presented with the Peanut Cup.

Tetouan

We ventured into Tetouan with John for a brilliant kebab lunch, followed by a mooch around the market and a rapid loss of bearings in the Medina. I wish we had capacity for scratch and sniff so that you could experience the tapestry of smell made up of spices, fruit, vegetables – and rotting fish. The chickens were free-range and still running around!

Tetouan is set against the stunning backdrop of the Rif Mountains.

The Palace Gates in Tetouan – see the sentry boxes for scale.

The Washing-up-liquid-nappies-eggs-and-inflatables stall.

Plain old veg.

Spice heaven.

Next episode – scratch and sniff from El Jebha!