A character-building walk

Amoret
Mon 17 Nov 2008 10:46

After the Ponta São Lourenço, it was time to try one of the levada walks following water catchment channels along the contours (i.e. not too much up and down). What I missed was that walking to roads to starts and from finishes involves plenty of up and down. That is the character-building part! Anyway, here are a few pictures from the Levada do Caniçal that I walked yesterday (about 12 miles of levada and 14 of more or less attractive roads). The levadas are simply box-section gutters with or without water in them, with a track alongside which may be broad and easy or may be a narrow, slippery ledge with an alarming drop below. On the eastern section of this walk the levada crosses a gully where the only option is to step into the levada and squelch along it while hoping that it is made of sound concrete. The strangest thing is the contrasts. Some sections pass through the upper parts of villages clinging to the slope, with the usual sounds of girls yelling, dogs barking and top-volume radio music. A few yards on, you round a corner and are crossing a steeply wooded hillside where the only sounds are birdsong and croaking frogs. The views are tremendous - in the 4th picture the marina jetty and lighthouse are visible in the distance near the centre of the frame, with the São Lourenço peninsula beyond.