Cala Del Bollo Sardinia
Altea
Sat 2 Aug 2014 09:18
15 July 2014
We spent three days here. It turned out that just over the headland there was a grotto that was well worth visiting. We went ashore, and after a brief altercation with the owner of the bar who thought we were dumping our rubbish (L's Italian immediately tested and not found wanting) we walked up the steep coastal path and then down 537 steps on the other side, back down to sea level. We were all sceptical about what we would see, but paid the admission price at a booth cunningly placed at the foot of the steps, so that only the meanest visitor would not want to capitalise on the potential investment made. It was well worth it. The caves were as good as any that we have seen with magnificent stalactites and stalagmites, alabaster curtains and intricate coral-like formations. Pillars 30m high that grow at the rate of 1 cm every 300 years. That's a long time.
The next day we went out to sea for another generator, washing machine and water making session, preferring not to pollute the water in the bay. That evening a couple of Aussies stopped by in their dinghy to say hello to the neighbours. They had anchored earlier in a Discovery 55 and were on their way back from the grotto with their two kids. We shared a couple of beers and picked their brains about their trip from Australia, via Malaysia and Indonesia and a ship to Turkey, to avoid the pirates. They had previously spent time in the Caribbean and Pacific. French Polynesia and the Galapagos are highly recommended. They were heading in the opposite direction to us, towards the Balearics, home schooling the children along the way and planning winter visits to the Alps. They have solar panels rigged on a gantry over the davits. The davits are the same as ours, so it may be a possibility for us in the future.
The following day we had a long distance (and choppy) dinghy ride for provisions and a meal. We were all soaked by the time we got to the other side, but no harm was done and we soon dried out. After a hike inland to the supermarket, we enjoyed huge lamb chops in the restaurant back on the sea front, followed by a slightly less bumpy ride home.
We had not particularly planned on spending three days here, and even though the wind was not forecast to be great, we set off the next day up the North West coast of Sardinia, aiming to traverse the Fornelli Passage (which saves a longer trip round the archipelago at the top of the Island) and to anchor somewhere near Stintino. The Aussies had gone through the passage, which is only 4m deep in parts, and they have a similar draught to us, so we should be ok.
40:57:75N 08:13:63E
Rado De Fornelli
18 July 2014
We set off in a flat gloopy calm under motor, enjoying breakfast along the way as we run close (not too close) to the towering cliffs. A band of wind is visible a mile ahead, the dividing line between calm and wind drawn across the sea as if by a ruler. After a couple of hours we get 12 knots of wind and tack up the coast.
Sails down for the transit of the Fornelli Passage, we have a good look round with the binoculars and find the leading lights (as they would be at night) which also serve as transits in the day time. As long as we keep them lined up, we are on the right course. If the closer beacon is to the left of the further one, we must turn to port - and vice versa. With chart plotter as back up we go through slowly, the crystal clear water giving a great view of the turquoise sand and rock just a few metres below us. L is up front as a lookout. Half way through we swap transits at the 50 degree turn in the middle of the passage, and now looking behind us to make sure this second pair line up, we carry on through as a strong current tries to push us off course.
For a Swallows and Amazon reader like me, there is a fond memory of John, Susan, Titty and Roger, using the leading lights on Wild Cat Island to outfox the Amazons. Great stuff.
We anchor just a couple of miles later, in spectacular blue water. We go for a swim and see the anchor, well buried in the sand.