78 55.80 N, 11 56.50 E

 

Happy Birthday Jon!

 

The cruise ships didn't bother us although there were lots of people ashore. Since it was such a perfect day we decided that it was now or never to have that swim, so Fiona, Hannah and James went in from the beach while Peter captured it on camera. We didn't stay in long, but it was tolerable, just. It also amused the 100 people or so from the cruise ship who had been ferried to the beach in full waterproof gear and warm clothing to find 3 semi naked brits rushing about after the dip trying to warm up.

 

We then set off walking at a good pace back to the same glacier we walked to yesterday. This was because Peter had unfinished business there: he wanted a photograph of him holding the rifle while wearing only his orange wellies and his designer underpants (and a sheepish grin). The glacier and bare mountain provided a sufficiently dramatic backdrop; apparently the company which makes the pants rewards such publicity shots with free pairs.

 

After lunch back on board Awelina  we had an uneventful sail back towards Ny Alesund. (We're getting quite blasé about floating ice). The only thing of note is that Awelina had her spray deck reinstalled with a bright dayglow orange panel sewn in by Fiona. It took her a total of 24 hours and ten minutes of hand stitching to complete using a sailors palm and waxed thread. It also resulted in several holes in her hands. (A Herculean task without a sewing machine, for which we’re all extremely grateful – James).

 

Ny Alesund hosts a famous Saturday night pub event that even the Sysselman’s representative at Magdalenefjord had recommended we attend. We had also been previously invited by Nick so our attendance there became the day’s goal. We made it by 11:50 pm local time. The pontoon which is normally for yachts had warning signs on it saying that it was reserved for the tenders from a cruise ship, but we decided to tie up there anyway since we didn’t think the cruise ship would begin ferrying people ashore until 8 am or so.

 

The pub was open and buzzing with all nationalities of scientists in various states of drunkenness. Inside the windows were blacked out to make it feel like night time! Outside the revels were taking place under a brilliantly clear blue sky and in bright sunshine. It’s a small world and James met an artist who will be exhibiting a picture later this year at one of the Tate galleries, very likely organised by Caroline (his sister). We stayed quite a long time, until about 3 am when it was just beginning to thin out, and then walked a trifle unsteadily back. (The bar serve a speciality drink known as Ny Alesund’s best; Baileys, Cointreau and coffee just to give it a bit of flavour. Lethal).

 

Fiona had unfortunately got a finger crushed while helping the barman put back up a blind which had fallen down, and retired to bed - lucky the spray deck repairs were all complete. James and Peter were hailed by the crew of a French Brigantine, La Maloine, which was tied up to the cruise-ship quay, and they came aboard Awelina and proceeded to chat and smoke and drink the ship dry. But it was quite fun actually (for James at least) to be chatting in French as if we’d just crossed the channel.

 

Since it was now 6 am and the cruise ship, the Costa Pacifica, was just arriving Peter and James decided to set off – the wind being fair for a sail south. This unilateral decision was not entirely welcomed when H and Fe woke – the dangers of demon drink!

 

We crossed the same shallow patch we’d had to negotiate coming north, again without trouble. James is going to sketch the transit which is quite clear once one knows what one’s looking for and send it in to the CA library.

 

Later in the afternoon Jon Hudson came through loud and clear however over the HF radio as per our daily schedule and we spent some time talking, updating our position and receiving a very clear ice fax. Why this was so clear today and hasn’t been before we don’t know, but maybe the local weather has an effect; the barometer has fallen 20 millibars in 24 hours, which would presage a storm in temperate latitudes but seems not to mean so much here.

 

We are now motoring towards the Farmhamna area of the mainland down Forlandsundet to anchor for the night and hopefully to see a few more walruses and with luck an arctic fox near Trygghamna. The foxes go and wait at the foot of the bird cliffs there during the week the sea bird fledglings try their first flight, and that’s probably this week.

 

It feels odd to be heading South again after so long travelling towards the north pole. If all goes well we should be in Longyearbyen again late on Monday to return the rifle and buy more fresh stores and starting to watch the forecast for the 4-day crossing back to mainland Norway.