Sunday 7^th October  We arrived at our destination, Ashmore Reef www.deh.gov.au/coasts/mpa/index.html yesterday morning, just two hours ahead of Glendora and Jupiter, and oh my goodness what a place.

 

 

Ashmore Reef in the middle of the Indian Ocean 

 

Just when we were feeling a little jaded – smug even – been everywhere,  seen everything, nothing can touch us in the same way now…….and then there was Ashmore Reef National Nature Reserve, lying about 840 kilometres west of Darwin.  With just one Australian ‘Guardian’ Customs ship anchored in the lagoon we are the only other visitors here and they were quick to come on board and tell us, with immense pride,

all about the area. 

 

Ashmore Guardian – Australian Customs Ship

 

We are anchored on buoys in the inner lagoon (provided so we don’t damage the coral).  Here there are large numbers of migratory shorebirds, colonies of breeding seabirds, significant populations of breeding and nesting sea turtles, seventeen species of sea snakes (the greatest number of species recorded at any location in the world) fabulous snorkelling on pristine and totally undamaged coral reefs – truly awesome.  We have mating turtles huffing and puffing in the sea around us, a beautiful ‘Robinson Crusoe’ island with just two palm trees within dinghy distance and sand spits to visit. There are sharks here but they are so well fed they pose no danger (??).

 

 

Mating turtles

 

Anyhow we spent the day in the warm sea:

 

 

 

 

Vic taught Clara to snorkel – and what a place to learn

 

 

 

 

Amazing blue starfish

 

 

And wonderful coral gardens

 

 

Vic underwater

 

 

 

 

Turtle tracks in the sand leading to their buried eggs

 

 

Relic of an Indonesian fishing boat

 

 

 

Father and son…..

 

 

 Oscar put all his weights and free dive fins on until he realised we were in 12 inches of water

 

 

Lee

 

 

…..and Teri

 

 

We walked the length of West Islet to find the well used by Indonesian fishermen.

 

 

The notice warns of cholera in the water but we tested it and found it potable

 

 

Later that evening we enjoyed a lovely joint birthday dinner with Glendora and Jupiter who brought wine, pastiche, delicious salads and ice from their ice maker – very sophisticated, given the location!  Lee brought his guitar and sang in the moonlight – all very special. I was born in India in 1954 so attaining the age of 54 and being back in the Indian Ocean also leant some significance to the day……….

 

 

A very special anchorage

 

 

The pod of three……

 

 

We had been warned of illegal immigrants but there are none here and with Customs close by we feel very safe – traditional Indonesian fishers have visited these areas for hundreds of years and are still allowed access to certain parts of the reserve to replenish fresh water supplies and seek shelter – they also have grave sites here that they visit.

 

The sun has now risen over a flat calm, glassy lagoon and another day in paradise has dawned……………..

 

 

……but it is never ‘that’ peaceful anymore!!!