63:25.978N 10:22.382E Trondheim
SEPTEMBER a m
Madeleine and Martin
Sat 28 Jul 2012 16:13
Oh dear, oh dear. And it was all going so well. Our anchorage in Gravdalsbukta was supposed to be a jumping off point to go and see the Viking Museum at Borg. Well there was no jumping off on Sunday 15th July as we were literally gale bound; too rough to launch the dinghy! Much reading and R and R, not to mention spirits raised by, with or from a sea shanty sing song. It was still blowing on Monday but fully kitted your intrepid crew launched the dinghy and went ashore. Long walk to Leknes and a bus to the Museum. Cleverly presented information, a complete reconstruction of the chiefs long house and a long boat (sorry - too rough to take out!!) made for an interesting visit. Lifting the anchor on Tuesday was also interesting – she was well dug in and brought up half the sea bed. Lovely down wind sail to the tiny fishing village of Nusfjord. Alongside we attracted almost as much attention as the "“film set” village that surrounded us. Many photographs taken (and received!). Onto an anchorage near Mortsund. Wednesday and some challenging sailing the too short distance to Stamsund, helmed with consummate skill by Roger overcoming not only the conditions but much teasing. Early supper in the excellent restaurant before seeing Liz and Roger off on the Hurtigrute bound for Bergen. Much waiving of hankies. Long range forecast dictated an early start southwards though as it turned out not early enough. September headed south east passed the remaining Lofoten Islands including the aptly named town of A (pronounced awe), through the edge of the famous Moskenstraumen whirlpool and passed the strange islands of Vaeroey and Roest. Didn’t see the puffin colony – travelling too fast with a near perfect sailing breeze and blue sky. Good conditions overnight with average speed above 8 knots. Crossed the arctic circle at 0550 in sunshine. 16.5 days gone in a flash. Good weather bound to change and it did. Frustrating day of wind coming and going before it settled into a NW4/5 with heavy swell. Very poor forecast for the next 24 to 48 hours, southerly gale 8 around the dangerous headlands north of Bergen. Decided to make for Trondheim instead of Bergen and make that our laying up port. Overnight Saturday was accompanied by magnificent cloudscapes and then dark rain squalls travelling through just ahead of us. 0700 Saturday and heavy squall led to a reefing gear failure. Log reads, “Genoa taken down and restrained on foredeck. Evolution 1 and 1/2 hours. Crew magnificent”. Finally motored into Trondheim marina at 1500, 380 miles in two days, two hours. A comfortable week of make do and mend, including the reefing gear, trips to Trondheim to see the sights and a day trip to the Norwegian Knitting Museum! Home by air tomorrow all being well.