68:07N 13:33E Near Leknes

Madeleine and Martin
Sat 14 Jul 2012 12:46
When we were last in touch the arctic crew were savouring the prospect of an evening meal at the famous Klokkergarden restaurant on Roeddoeya Island.  We only just made it; they were fully booked but squeezed us into a delightful annexe with its own views over the harbour and small islands. Wonderful, but where did all the people come from? This island is in the middle of no where. Took the next day off and walked up the small mountain which is shaped like a lion at rest. Hot sunshine, memorable views and a hytte that looked like an Amdega garden house stuck on a ledge half way up! Next day on to Bodo, pronounced Boodah. Not the best of marinas but good for clean up, shop and general preparation. Liz and Roger arrived on Saturday afternoon (7th July) walking from the airport to the marina lugging booze, suntan cream and multi layers – clearly ready for anything!
Sunday morning, motor sailing northwards up the main land coast to the fishing village of Kjerringoey – a must see according to the pilot book. Bit of a tight fit on the pontoon! Excursion to the Museum and preserved buildings. On to an evening anchorage in scenic fjord at Brennvikka. The following day tested the crew with some close passage work through a chain of tiny islands, glorying in the name Groetoeleia, low cables and low bridges en route to Stutvik. Rafting on the pontoon and met the neighbours large black Airedale. Some daring crew members paddled off the beach followed by a brisk walk around Stutvik to reawaken frost bitten toes! Left the following morning bound for Korsnes the last leg on the mainland before departing for the Lofoten Islands. Korsnes harbour provided a safe anchorage, a visit to the 9000 year old “etchings” and many photographs of the midnight sun which put in a splendid appearance viewed from the north facing Korsnes beach. The climatic conditions have been a challenge for Roger so Wednesday 11th delivered him to the doctor in Svolvaer; two minutes to get the pills followed by a 20 minute mini guide to the Lofoten. Rested in Svolvaer capital of the Lofoten, sightseeing, gallery and meals out. Refuelled 750 litres, but felt much better when talking to our neighbour a professional fisherman – “ we burn about 1200 litres per hour when pulling the trawl!”  Following doctors orders convalescence limited to 24 hours and then off to Kabelvag fishing capital of the Lofoten; they landed more cod here in 1896 than is landed in the whole of the Lofoten today. Lazy downwind sail to Henningsvaer another famous fishing village; with good reason, perhaps now more skilled at being a tourist attraction than a working harbour. Poor weather forecasts so we have anchored at Leknes today and intend to visit the Viking Museum at Borg tomorrow – that is if the two mega cruise ships, who are also at the top of this fjord, have finished ferrying their multitude ashore doubtless for a similar purpose.