26th June grey skies all 67 miles to Kristiansund. We took the outer Hustadvika route which is described in the pilot book as ‘considered a particularly dangerous and exposed area’. Thanks to several days of light winds, the sea was calm and the passage uneventful..We tied up in the minute Guest Harbour. A neighbouring Norwegian sailor, on hearing that we were bound eventually for the Lofoton Islands and hoping to catch some serious fish told me, ‘we put the potatoes on the stove, and when the water boils, then we drop the hook over the side’. Hmm, we’ll see. Today we found the first Norwegian who doesn’t speak English. Unfortunately it’s the Harbour Master here, but somehow I managed to obtain tokens for the washing machine and a card key for the door. We had lunch in the restaurant Smia (the Blacksmith’s) and our lovely waitress told us she’s an ardent Arsenal supporter. When we went back there for an evening meal we gave her our small Arsenal cushion (don’t ask!) and she hugged us both with glee. We spent three days here and by the time we left every space was rafted three boats deep.

 

30th June, 62 miles; 1st July, 104 miles in 13 hours, with a Gotterdammerung finish of thunder and lightening all around, rain so heavy visibility was severely curtailed, just as we were entering the ever narrowing track through the rocks towards Roervik. Crew on high alert, condition Red, etc etc but finally the pillars of the bridge materialised through the murk, we passed safely through and into our planned anchorage.Then of course the wind died, the rain drizzled out and visibility was restored...

 

2nd July 71 miles in 10 and a half hours. Some time spent stooging around looking for the hole in Torg’s Hat (the hole is 160 metres through so you have to exactly in the right spot to see daylight) see MJ’s entry. Squeezed through a very narrow channel and under another sweaty bridge past Broennoeysund where the pilot book warns of strong tidal streams ‘ 2 or even 3 knots’! Pah! They should come to the Channel Islands! On this passage we celebrated our ship’s Log passing the 2000 mile mark. Anchored in a secluded bay in Roeddoeya.

 

3rd July 74 miles from Roeddoeya to ...Roeddoeya – the other one! The scenery is increasing in grandeur as we go North, impressive snow-capped mountains on all sides. Crossed the Arctic Circle, 66 degrees 33 mins North, at 1710. Rather chaotic, changing sail, taking photos and texting family all at the exact same magic moment. Two hours later we were tied up on the dock of the Klokkergaarden restaurant. The scenery is breathtaking.