Our Caribbean Guide book had only a short paragraph on Haiti ‘Prospective visitors to Haiti are STRONGLY encouraged to consult recent travel Advisories put out by the British Foreign Office and US State Dept.’ In other words don’t go.

Perhaps this applies to the mainland where kidnappings and assault are a reality, where Judges are often corrupt and at the core of the extortion business. We are told that Port-au-Prince is a dangerous place and hardly a place for the casual traveller. Mainland is struggling to put behind it the label of one of the poorest places on earth, desperately trying to recover from military dictatorships and Presidents-for-life, not forgetting the 2004 Hurricane Jean and flash floods in May 2005.

However the word amongst sailors who have been to Ile a Vache, a small Island South West of Haiti, recommend it so highly as a must visit place that when it was on our way to the Turks and Caicos we decided it would be the perfect stop for a couple of days to recover from our 480nm. passage.

As we approached the Islands the fishermen in their dugout canoes reminded us of Senegal, Africa, without the pungent smell of burning rubbish, only wood smoke from cooking fires.

On our approach to Port Morgan (named after the infamous Pirate) we were surrounded by smiling and friendly young lads in dugout canoes (made from the trunks of Mango trees) welcoming us and offering to work on the boat or act as guides to the Island. Being travelwise and exhausted from our journey we were non committal and ask them gently to come back tomorrow.

In the evening we were lulled to sleep by the sound of drums in the village and were transported once again back to Africa

The Island has no roads, electricity or any form of motorised transport, therefore everyone retires to bed early and rises at dawn.  The way of life has not changed for hundreds of years.

The minute we popped our heads out the next morning we were surrounded by eager faces jockeying for the first jobs, saying ‘Remember me? I was the first one to ask for work’ We tried to spread the work around.  We were amazed how willing to learn the youngsters were. They worked well and diligently. All had similar stories to tell: They needed money to pay for their schooling, they were very poor, either mothers or fathers had died and they were the bread winners with many brothers and sisters in their care (until we realized one mother must have had him at 65. Of course he was very sharp and realised his faux pas)

                                                                                                                   Skipper not at ease! The Gondolier took his

                                                                                                                   Job very seriously...

The main languages are French and Creole but English and Spanish are often spoken well despite the absence of any Television or computer influences, their eagerness to learn is refreshing. We were constantly asked if we had dictionaries, or suitable reading material to give away.  

The village on the bay in which we were moored was Caille Coq and the people were so friendly. We went to the Methodist Church on Easter Sunday where we were made very welcome. We were expecting lots of singing and rhythm but in fact it was not very tuneful. They were all dressed up in their Sunday best. The little girls had lots of striking ribbons in their platted hair to match their satin dresses, some shoes were too big for their feet but the lacy socks made up for it.   Everything was carried out with great enthusiasm especially the sermon. Unfortunately it was in Creole but as a piece of theatre it was magnificent and I am sure contained the Haitian equivalent of hellfire and damnation! On the walk back to the boat we were invited to visit the village cock fighting arena which was full of noisy locals. We declined but were intrigued by the cultural conflict.

One of the highlights was a two hour walk with our guide Kama to the main village Madame Bernard where on Monday and Thursday there is a bustling market. People from all over the area, including main land, come by boat, foot or horseback to purchase and sell their vegetables and simple wares. The walk had everything from small hamlets to forests and coastal scenery.

The frenzied activities reminded us of Africa

Kama, our guide                                       Full of fun                                                              Pet walking!

‘A Vendre’  - For sale                                                                        Siesta time...

Football is big on the Island and taken very seriously. There is a constant demand for footballs. Caille Coq Team had just burst theirs, so we arranged for one to be brought in from La Caille on the mainland. It took a few days to arrive and at one time we thought that the money may have ‘disappeared’ but after serious enquiries, it was presented for us to initial. We had prime seats at practice time. The young lads are so skilful and were  appreciative to be able to play again.

Watching with Trainer Edyson                                                                  An activity shared with the whole village      

The pitch was in the hub of the village for all to watch. Water fetching is women’s work, but it gave the girls an opportunity to  gaze at the young stars!

         Even Trendy merchants stop to watch play

                             Where did he get his crocs?  With his chair to match....

We taught some of the young boys to make simple buckles to hold beach wraps and sarongs securely. They are made from coconut shells. Once they were shown they quickly grasped the idea and in the afternoon they returned with several variations, all beautifully crafted using only a sharp knife. We hope that they will continue to build up a stock so they will be able to offer them for sale to visiting yachts.

Speaking the language was a great advantage. We were able to exchange views.

Jean-Jean asked us for help and advice for opening his restaurant Kaliko. We were his first customers and had 2 very good meals Haitian style.  He asked us to be God-parents to his 10 week old son but we gently explained that with our travelling life style it was not possible.

                                            Everything is recycled. Used flip-flop soles make perfect fishing floats.

There is no rubbish visible anywhere as there is no plastic packaging.

We stayed in this wonderful place for two weeks, enjoying the company of the island’s gentle and kind people.

Returning to roost.

We changed plans and decided to visit Cuba.