Sunday afternoon whilst speaking to Paul on the phone we had an earth tremor (at least not a quake which is common in Peru). The hotel shook violently but no damage, apart from barking dogs.

For our last week in Peru we decided to go to the Mountains 5hrs north of Lima, where no foreign tourists go, apart from limenos.

We caught a taxi to the station. Having bought the tickets the previous day we had a fair idea where to go, obviously not the taxi driver. What should have taken a 15 minutes ride became a stressful 45 only to be dropped at the wrong place. At 3 times the price another taxi took us around the corner with 2 minutes to spare. We need not have worried as the bus left half an hour late. No 1^st class travel this time, the bus was a real rattlebox. At least we did not have chickens aboard.

Lima’s north suburb is so dirty, such a slum that it makes South Africa’s townships look quite tame. It is not helped by the fact it rarely rains and none of the buildings are finished, therefore Lima is always under a cloud of dust and pollution.

On the Pan American Highway, the bus was stopped at a control check. Two tyres were defective.

Changing tyres Peruvian style

An hour later with new tyres fitted, we continued our journey.

A little further on we turned inland leaving the tarmac behind. The road became a dirt track. We had to hang on to our fillings!

The next blockade was “no fruitas”. Luggage was checked for fruit. None was allowed beyond this point for fear of importing fruit flies into the upland growing area.

dust everywhere                                          Some roads!

As we started climbing the landscape became a moonscape. Himalayan style mountains, young and rugged, with shale and gravel slopes looking very unstable.

The scattered villages looked extremely poor. The inhabitants all look alike, short with coppery leather skin and the children with apple shaped cheeks.  The style and colour of their dress is very similar apart from their hats which seem to be unique to each village

The river at the bottom was bubbly with fast moving rapids. The road was so narrow that the bus had very little room to manoeuvre with sheer drops down. No room for error!. We needed nerves of steel as passengers. The driver is used to it!

Nothing between us and the raging river

precarious bridge                                                                    Roadside cafe                                                                                                     

7hrs later we arrived at our destination. A ramshackle place!. We can’t fathom out it existence. Perhaps it was built as a mining centre. Hundred of trucks go through daily carrying coal for steel mills on the coast.  Peru has so many natural resources; sadly it does not get to the core of the Peruvians but to the corrupt politicians. A few days ago another minister from the previous administration, on corruption charges, has left the country in a hurry!

Appalling living conditions

The tourist boom the region is experiencing is not for the scenery but the Thermal Baths (cobalt, iron, sulphur etc) claiming all sorts of cures.  The Limenos seem to think all their ailments will vanish by bathing in every pool available. It seems to me that their ills would be helped by diet and a little exercise.

Fashion parade

    Village conference

         Any customers?

Walking to school                                                     Local transport

The next day after a morning walk on very dusty loose gravel track, we decided to take a tour to the top of the valley to see if it might be better. It turned out a very interesting excursion. The higher the mountain the terrain improved with less shale and a much softer green valley. It was beautiful. We saw condors flying. We passed on the baths fearing what we might catch and went for a 2-hour walk. Good choice!

At last some greenery

Not a fairy to be seen                                          Lunch being cooked

 By Wednesday we had seen all we wanted and decided to return to Lima in preparation for our return to Trinidad, via Caracas on Saturday.

We arrived back tired and dusty.

It is unbelievable that bus and taxi drivers should inflict violent films or ghastly music at full volume to their passengers. Its is worldwide…..