After 3 weeks of complete solitude it seemed strange to be surrounded by people. Cienfuegos with its neoclassical architecture is clean and by Cuban standards well maintained. Getting our bikes out of mothballs was exciting and we enjoyed cycling. Our visa renewal was due 19^th May. 25 Cuc stamps were required; the Marina had run out of 5 Cuc stamps. Being a Saturday morning, the Banks were closed by 11 am. We offered to pay 30 Cuc but that was refused (‘More than my job’s worth’). The Immigration officer reminded us that if we were late renewing our visa the penalty was severe, by then we realised one does not trifle with the system. We changed our plans and decided to go to Trinidad for 3 days instead of Havana.    We left Scorch in the Marina and travelled inland.

Trinidad was described in our book as The Little Gem of Cuba whose architecture remains unspoilt (a term usually used for unrestored). It has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our thoughts were if this was the Gem, what was the rest like? It did not help arriving in pouring rain. It grew on us and we did enjoy the music. Saturday evening the main square was buzzing until 4 am with live music and Salsa dancing.

Bustling little market                              Typical Trinidadian’s street

Old part of town

It was our 1^st encounter staying in a Casa Particular (B & B) a very good way of finding out about people and Cuban lifestyle. The government allows private householders to rent a room to supplement their income. It decides the charge, according to standard and location, usually 20 to 25 Cuc per room. The householder pays a monthly tax for the privilege, whether he has customers or not and an annual income tax of about 10%. But the real income is on meals served where no tax is levied. 

Sunday morning we took the steam train to the next valley and had a wonderful time.

                                                          Boys don’t grow up, their toys get bigger!

The countryside was very pretty.

The old country ways still apply.

We returned to Cienfuegos in time to renew the visas.

We were going to Havana by bus but a French sailor’s wife was returning to France and we managed to have a private car to take us.  A cartel is operated by hustlers at the bus station. A young lad, whose sister is married to an Italian and lives in Italy and was home on a month’s visit, used her rented car to make some extra income. Sadly joining a completely empty motorway from a fuel station without stopping cost him 15 points on his licence (at least without a fine). After 35 points the licence is withdrawn for either 6 to 12 months depending on the seriousness of the offences committed.

Our B & B in Havana was good but the area was pretty ram shackle; not the best first impression after a long tiring trip. 

In its hey day (1920/1930) Havana must have been amazing and in a class of its own, with its fine museums, colonial buildings, elegant plazas, sweeping boulevards and narrows atmospheric streets bustling with life. Supported by rich Americans escaping prohibition.  Today’s crumbling decay is pitiful to see. Habana Vieje (Old City) a leafy district where many of the post colonial mansions have been converted into public works and ministry offices or museums, which have been beautifully restored, is proof of the majestic grandeur Havana could be.  Under the present regime, which is now politically isolated from the rest of the world and has lost its aid from Russia and China, there is no money left for restoration. Because all housing is publicly owned there is no incentive for the inhabitants to maintain the properties, and the decay continues. It would appear that Havana is a lost cause

                                            Volley Ball practice                                            Typical Havana back streets

   trying out my new found rhythm

Equally the old classic cars in poor state of repair identify the remains of an old prosperous era. We are told that any Cuban is allowed to own a car made before 1959. The other privately owned cars allowed are Senior Government employees and wealthy Cubans who return from foreign countries. Equally foreign firms, although since 10 years ago small foreign investment is not allowed only large conglomerates.  

We went to the National Theatre for a centenary concert. It was wonderful. The tickets cost 20 Cuc for the tourists (the locals paid 5 Pesos, about 20p). The reduced rate applies for 3 months during the low season, but very few took the opportunity. The Theatre was empty!  The Orchestra was 40 strong; no string instruments, only woodwind, brass and percussion. The singers were excellent. The Grand piano was on its last legs. It was sad to see that even the National Theatre could not afford a decent instrument.

 Museo de la Revolucion

We visited the Museo de la Revolucion. It was a very enlightening morning. Every street in Cuba has a CDR (Committee for the Defence of the Revolution). They have meeting twice a month and everyone must attend, if not they are investigated. It would seem to us that if the Revolution needs such a strong defence it is probably not working. The youngsters, usually the hot bed for dissent, are not contented. Cuba in its present form will have to change, but so convinced are they that the present situation will last forever that we are told it is not uncommon to hear people say that “IF Fidel dies”, rather than “ WHEN”, things may change... When the change comes it will be painful and we pray not too bloody.

Castillo de San Salvador                                  Capitolio National.

                                                                          A replica of Washington’s Capitol                                                                                                                

We are told Cuba has a very high divorce rate. It is near impossible for a young married couple to have housing; therefore they share with either parent, causing friction.  To walk away from marriage is easy; as people own nothing, they just pack a bag and leave.

3 Days in Havana was enough, we moved on to Vinales, the agricultural jewel of Pinar del Rio, with its extraordinary looking Mogotes (limestone outcrops), where tobacco growing is the mainstay of agriculture. We did a 20km hike. It reminded us of a wild west hick town, although pleasant it did not come up to expectation.

We visited a Cigar factory on the way. The most famous Cohiba cigar leaves are apparently fermented for 10 years but not so the Monte Cristo or Romeo and Juliet. It was fascinating to watch the process from the leaf form to its rolling and its sophisticated and slick packaging to maintain them in perfect condition. Not a sweaty thigh to be seen!

Tobacco plant                            Drying process         Farmers wrap their      cigars

                                                                                     In Royal Palm leaves.

We visited a local farmer grower. They are obliged to sell 75% of their crop the Government. They keep 25% (the best of course!) Unlike the Government owned farms, their crop is completely organically grown. Their argument is that unlike a good wine which improves with maturing, leaves do not. Therefore they dip their leaves in a mixture of water, honey, rum and Guava leaves and after 5 days drying they make their cigars which they proudly say are completely natural and the best. We can’t comment as neither of us smoke!  

Lovely old farmer                                        Hoeing the old ways

The best way to get around                           If no prehistoric paintings exists

                                                                           Paint some 1961 style!

It was time to return to Scorch, but it was not without its complications. We booked the micro bus direct to Cienfuegos on arrival, to make sure we had seats. We were the first. It turned out that they had not included our names and the bus was full. ‘Sorry, we will give you your money back’ we stood firm and told them that it was their responsibility to gets us back. After a lot of waiting and haggling we had a private taxi to take us on our 6 hr. journey. 

On our return we stocked up with fruit and vegetables and decided the weather window was right to leave Cuba.

SYNOPSYS:

Cuba is a sailor’s paradise with protected waters which are crystal clear. There is no rubbish. On the deserted coral cays the only foot prints are birds and reptiles. The Coral reefs and the marine life were amazing.

Inland Cuba is nothing to write home about but its appeal is its people and  music.

The population of mixed race and colour live at peace together. They are proud, very friendly, welcoming and on the surface appear happy. They seem totally unresentful of the great advantages reserved for the tourists, despite the restrictions and shortages caused by the American embargo. They are very resourceful and look for ways to supplement their low income and are not averse to fiddling the system if no one is watching. They are proud of their education record and boast of the fact they have more doctors than anywhere else in the world. In our view you cannot repress educated and enquiring minds forever. There is so little reading material available. Everything is censored. Very few computers and not for home consumption, the system is archaic but we are told Chavez is installing an underwater optic fibre cable from Venezuela to Cuba to improve internet access but no gift from Chavez is without its price.

Although the state incomes are very low, every citizen lives in free housing and is issued with coupons for food and other basic requirements which are almost free. This unique system where professional qualification is paid so poorly and yet waiters and taxi drivers earn a relative fortune does not smack of equality. This totally controlled social environment kills personal initiative.  It would appear that even if they had a well rewarded post with the Government; retired people find it very hard to manage and rely on subsidy from their family.

There are a huge number of Cubans living in America and other countries. Their family in Cuba rely heavily on their financial help for luxuries such as TV, washing machine etc. The Government decided few years ago to tax any US$ by about 10%. Another form of income tax.

One could argue that there are flaws in both ‘socialist and capitalist’ systems but the biggest different in our system is that we have FREEDOM OF CHOICE as well as social responsibility.

Surely that must be the basic right of any human being!

The last person to board Scorch on leaving Cuba was the Port Authority Officer; a delightful young man who belongs to a Cienfuegos Band. He saw my guitar and sent us on our way with 3 songs. A perfect finale to our stay