As we left Puno port the boat motored through a channel lined with Tortora Reeds. Within half an hour we reached the Uros floating Islands (about 48 of them). The islands are made of large blocks of reed roots held together by ropes with layer upon layers of fresh reeds on top. The reeds are a source of food (the white inner juicy bit near the root) it taste a bit like celery. It is also the basic materiel for roofs and walls. It is used for cooking fuel and to make wonderful rafts. These floating islands are anchored down at each corner with a long nylon rope and heavy weight.

There are about 600 Uros Indians living in these islands today. They are a mix of Quechua and Aymaru blood.

Life has never been easy for them but modern day living has improved through tourism and they seem fairly content.

Motoring through the reeds                    Beautiful reed boats                even for the young

                                          Floating villages                                                Rio Wily Island

Welcoming Party                             New found friend                              Bartering demo

All mode cons!                                  Kitchen                                         Farewell committee

As we approached Amantani Island where we were staying the 1^st night, a crowd of men and women in traditional costumes were lined up awaiting their 25 guests

 Ladies waiting for their guests and still knitting

We were advised by our guidebook and tour operator that it would be a nice gesture to bring our hosts  (2 in our case) some rice, sugar, salt and fruits. We had great fun buying in the market 2 kilos( in separate bags) the latter not forgetting carrots, apples, tangerines, 10 pencils, biros and books. It weighed about 18 kilos in all.

We started to climb laden with our rucksacks and goodies. Chris had to be excused in a hurry. Delhi  Belly or in this case Puno, is not  ideal when you are carrying very heavy weights up steep hills and suffering from breathlessness due to altitude.

Jenny, our host, was very tolerant and advised us to walk slowly.

Our guide was young and very energetic. He invited everyone to meet at 4 pm and play a game of football with the locals before we climbed up to the Temple at the top of the Island to watch the sunset. Chris decreed that next time we would choose an older guide.

We had a very entertaining evening with folklore music and dancing. All the Gringos had to dress up: Ladies in skirts and men in ponchos and hats

  Ready for the ball

Our hosts were very excited at the idea of dancing and especially the beer drinking.

Good steps                                                               Our host                                                       Excellent band

Chris managed 1 ½ hrs at the evening dance.

At 8 am the next morning, Jenny walked us down to the port. Downhill was so much easier especially with only half the goody load. I felt happy to have brought a few supplies to such a welcoming family but Chris said he did not feel that good carrying it and that it was easier to give cash. I replied “We already had done that and in any case they had to carry everything up too so they would appreciate our efforts!”

After an hour of rough crossing we reach Taquile Island. Titicaca lake is 4000 mts above sea level and we walked to the top of the island 5000 mts (3 miles). No wonder we feel the altitude. Taquile has been inhabited for over 10000 years and agriculture was introduced 4000BC. Today most of the islanders are weavers and knitters. The island is beautiful. It has 6 communities with 3000 habitants. They have no help from central government so  they pool resources together. The square is the hub of the community with a very modern town hall and a large textile/handicraft building. 90% of the proceeds goes to the vendors and 10%  tax to benefit  the community. Inter marrying is a great problem in the Island and creates genetic defects. To mix the gene pool they have been permitted to marry within the neighbouring islanders but only with Quechuans.

The Mayor decides who is going to be host and it would appear that they work as a unit.

As usual we do things differently, normally visitors stay one night, we stayed two! We waved goodbye to the party and walked to the highest point to the ruins Uray Kari . It was magic. Utter peace, with stunning views and scenery that would make any European real estate developers quiver with excitement. Thank God no one apart from the islanders are able to profit from the little tourism. We gather that a Belgian fellow tried to muscle in a few years ago and was sent packing. Despite their primitive and simple ways, the enjoyment of being part of a community has no price.

After 3 days of primitive living and baby wipes, the Russian Front Hotel with its abundance of hot water was appreciated.

We are leaving early for Cusco.

Bolivia in the back ground                   Beautiful terraces                            Stunning scenery

              If not bare footed, they all wear

Uray Kari temple                                Modern WC                              sandals made out of recycled rubber (old tyres and                                                

                                                                                                              Conveyor belts). When worn out they make good gate           

                                                                                                              hinges.

Going to school                                       Married men wear Red/Blue striped hats              Unmarried women wear pompons

                                                                 Unmarried ones wear the half white below            on their shawl