Position Horta harbour

Monday 1^st June

Well, so much for the famous Azores High – we’ve e sat in the middle of a relatively deep and unseasonal low. The wind has howled, the boat has ground against its neighbours and everyone else’s lines have banged and rattled against masts and spreaders. Saturday was rather better, with wind but little rain and was occupied with resting, extensive laundry and then a quiet, though rather dauntingly large meal ashore in the evening. Sunday was reserved for touristing, with a brand spanking four door Corsa (once of GM fame) appearing at around 9.00am. First stop was the celebrated Caldiera of the Faial central volcano. It’s a really attractive island with lushly cultivated fields giving way as the terrain rises to pine forest, by way of a light band of temperate rain forest peppered with tree ferns. Unfortunately the Azores low has covered the summit in a dense shroud of mist – very atmospheric, but useless for any views. From here downwards the day improved dramatically, we broke out of the cloud and wound down a graded gravel track to the coast road, and then to a black volcanic beach, pounded by large, wind driven surf. Pete and Jero promptly donned shorts and gambolled in the breakers like pale and slightly demented seals.

From here the road led to the Capello, the a cape stretching out at the western end of the island. This was the site of major eruptions and lava flows from late 1957 until late 1958,creating an island that then became an isthmus and finally a brand new part of the main island. It’s still a volcanic wasteland, though now steadily covering in grass, and the old, part buried lighthouse points darkly skywards from a desert of lava dust. Lunch then beckoned and by chance we found our way to Valadouro, a little fishing port and tiny resort perched under towering volcanic cliffs and fiercely pounded by the Atlantic, at least today. Here we found Franks restaurant that had been recommended to Pete and Liv by a bar owner they’d fallen in with in Horta. Frank serves a major chicken BBQ complete with veg, salad and garlic bread for the princely sum of eight euros including a stunning Atlantic view. After dining, this view turned into a spectacular display of the force of the sea, as the surfed crashed onto the stark volcanic rocks below, booming into the caves and fissures. Bizarrely, there are a number of swimming pools carved into the rock, currently doused with spray and spume, and three out of four decided to brave the elements, while one remained to record the scene. From here, the road led to steadily back to Horta – it was a really good day on a lovely island, in an island chain that is low key, good value unspoiled and needs much more time. Monday the weather has turned really wet, but preparations are afoot for departure, and forecast permitting, Tuesday may be the day.

Tourist view of Caldiera

Our view of Caldiera

Come on in, it's lovely

Light in a lava field

Pool water changed regularly