Rum and the Cold War

Irie
Tue 3 Feb 2009 19:50
Position 12 36.189N 061 27.038W
 
Chatham Bay, Union Island
Tuesday 3rd February
 
We've now had Jane and Jem aboard for four nights, and found our way up to Chatham Bay via Cariacou. Previously, on Grenada, the car trip moved on from the delights of the chocolate factory, to the temptations and perils of the St Antoine rum distillery. This is even more remarkable than the one seen on Martinique a couple of years ago. Here in Grenada, none of the processes have changed in 250 years. The vats, stills, water driven cane crusher and the boiling rooms are original - only a few plastic pipes give any clue that we are in the 21st century. The initial boilers are heated by fires fuelled with dry crushed cane, and the copper stills are fired by wood collected from the hills. The whole thing is unbelievably crude and very hit and miss. The product is branded Rivers, rolling in at 78% alcohol or 150% proof, and it can't be exported as it's too volatile. It burns like firewater, evaporating on the lips, and has a flovour best described as disinctive - no wonder some of the aged locals seem well preserved, if you pass the Rivers test, you'll survive anything. Then homewards, stopping only to take in the old Pearls airport. This is a bizarre little footnote to the Cold War, as it was abandoned in 1984 when the current airport opened , financed and built with help from Cuba. The runway is intact, with faded white paint outlining the thresholds, and there's an ageing abandoned Russian passenger pane alongside a small Cuban freighter. Even the tiny duty free building survives, still boasting French perfume and liqueurs, though the only contents are a couple of sprouting bushes and a carpet of leaves. The route home took us back through Grenville and down the rough eastern Atlantic coast before turning west to Prickly Bay. A great day out on a very pleasant island.
Our guests moved down from their appartment on Friday. We picked them up in the pouring rain, and it continued to belt all day, the only relief ocuring at Happy Hour when we made a beeline for the Prickly Bay bar for a couple of cheap beers. On Saturday the weather cleared and the wind dropped a little, so we set out for Cariacou. After a little excitement due  to a jam in the main,we had a great motor sail up the west coast, and a cracking sail from the top of Grenada past Diamond rock and then to Tyrell Bay. The fishing line was deployed, but this time, no wahoo. Tyrell was relatively empty of boats, so after a quietish night we made the ritual pilgramage to Paradise beach and the Hardwood Bar It was just as beautiful as ever, though Jan managed a first wth a rather nasty jab from a jellyfish. The upside of this was a trip to the Hardwood Bar for vinegar -  outer healing, and then a small tincture and lunch - inner peace. Monday we made off to Hillsborough to clear out and buy some provisions, before sailing the five or so miles to Clifton on Union Island. The wind was up around 25 knots, but the day shone and the spray sparkled. After clearing in, we set off round to Chatham, anchored up and were immediately greeted like long lost chums by Seckie and Vanessa  'Hey, Irie, great to see you, come and see our new restaurant'. So we did, with a complimentary rum punch and then toes buried in the sand as the sun dropped, and a soft darkness stole over Chatham - excellent.
 
Nearly ready for ice and coke
 
Minor techical delays
 
 
More sundowners