A lumpy ride to Antigua
Irie
Fri 8 Feb 2008 02:08
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Position 17 00.62N 61 46.65W Off Pigeon Beach,
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Thursday 7th February
Well, instead of a double hop to Antigua via
Guadaloupe, we managed it in one rather uncomfortable day. At around 6am, we
departed the mooring off Nevis just as the sky started to lighten to the east,
providing just enough gloom to feel our way out through the buouys and past
the couple of super yachts that had anchored outside the previous evening. It
was calm and there was little wind under the lee of the mountain, but as we
emerged from the shelter of the island, the dawn broke fully, and with it came a
large grey rain squall, increasing wind and lumpy waves. Ahead we could see
the harsh, grey shape of Redonda,an uninhabited island half way to
Monserrat. The course called for both islands to be left to the south in
order to keep clear of any ash issuing from Monserrat's volcano. Unfortunately
this meant a very close beat into an increasingly lumpy sea, using both the
motor and sails to push into the chop. By 11, we'd cleared Redonda, and
could clearly see the smoking top of the active cone 15
miles or so ahead. At this point, the sun came out, the wind freshened and
started to head us, the only option being to tack, away from the route to
Guadaloupe, and more towards Antigua. A straw poll amongst the increasingly
wave worn crew decided that one very uncomfortable day was better than two
slightly less so, thus Antigua became the goal. The wind steadily increased
to a full 20 knots true, giving 25 knots across the deck, and the sea
steepened to 7 or 8 feet. Irie performed immaculately, punching uphill into the
waves at 51/2 to 6 knots, and frequently shipping green water the length of her
side decks. The two novice crew turned increasingly pale, but were very stoical,
befriending the large winches on eitherside of the cockpit, and making close
aquaintance with the lee rail. Steadily Antigua grew on the horizon, islands
becoming hills' becoming unified shapes as the land emerged and eventually
the seas started to flatten, becoming a stunning azure in the shallows,
fringed by some of the multitude of shining white beaches. The
wraiths round the winches came rapidly alive, morphing into bikini
clad sun worshippers as we skirted the island round to the south, eventually
entering Falmouth harbour at 5 pm, eleven hours after the start. Circling
to anchor, we spotted Prim Tease,surprising Tom and Colette as we passed close
by. Ten minutes later, the anchor pulled up tight just off Pigeon Beach -
we had arrived, a day sooner than planned and covered in crystalised salt.
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