Spain - Feb and March
Trip to
Spain – Feb & March 2020 Sunday 23 February: Left home at 2030 to
catch Portsmouth - Bilbao ferry. Quite a wait to get on board. The Finisterre
cabins are much smaller than the Club cabins and two single bunks rather than a
double bed. Questionable whether worth the extra cost compared with the
standard outside twin cabins. Monday 24 February: Has been blowing quite
hard in the night so some bumping and banging. Into Roscoff at 0900 for a
couple of hours to change crew then passage down the Chenal de Four and inside
the Ile de Sein, however visibility poor. Very good supper –
a starter of raw cod and salmon with beetroot done several ways then a sturgeon
stew with black lentils and a Grand Marnier soufflé to finish. Not cheap at £83
but well cooked. Tuesday 25 February: A croissant and coffee on
board before 0745 docking on time in Bilbao. Drive for 30 minutes to a little
bar, Txakala in Ugao-Miramalles village. A basic locals’ café but
friendly and good rolls and coffee for breakfast and freshly made baguette
sandwiches for lunch. Stop at the Celtic
village at Numancia which has been thoroughly excavated showing the walls and
streets of a substantial settlement. Had been closed when we were last here. SMB overlooking Numancia Picnic lunch just outside
Bermejo which has a XIIIc castle on a high hill, an old church and town hall. Castle and church of
Bermejo Saw a dozen eagles
circling above – probably Bonelli, possibly Golden – on the back
road to Calatayud. Stayed in the Meson de la
Dolores which had been a palace before becoming a posada. A very old building
with stone and wood floors, thick internal walls, some with windows. The décor
looked unchanged for 100 years – but not meant in a derogatory sense. Our
room was perfectly adequate although the window looked across the street
– all of 3 metres – to a blank wall. Explored the town with its
three mudejar churches and watched flocks of storks returning to roost. Mudejar church door in
Calatayud Supped at the hotel but
chose to eat á la carte rather than the €15 menu del dia which would have
been better value. Started with the local specialities – migas aragonesas
and garbanzos con congrio, neither particularly good, then grilled lamb cutlets
and boar stew, both passable but ordinary. €69 for the meal. Wednesday 26 February: A good breakfast at the
hotel – yoghurts, omelettes, cold meats, cheese. The tablecloths almost
coming down to the floor – a brasero could easily be hidden underneath.
Paid €69 for B&B – excellent value – and €69 for
supper – not good value! The 250 mile drive to
Cartagena was pretty straightforward, mainly on motorways. Stopped for a late
lunch at La Bodega de Don Gil on the motorway a few miles before Alicante. An
excellent choice set in an ancient and huge barn with a very high ceiling, the
walls decorated with old farm implements (and an ancient typewriter!). Very
good value €11.5 menu del dia. Arrived at the boat at
1730, so able to unpack in the daylight. Boat dry and in good order. Thursday 27 February: Visited the office to
chat with Julia and pay €100 to reserve a berth for July & August.
Huge Carrefour shop. After lunch take top off fuel tank to check for bugs
– seems OK. Changed both fuel filters – much easier with the
suction pump. Joined for drinks by Horken(?)
and Colli(?), Swedish, from the Bavaria 40 next door. Friday 28 February: Visit yard to see Fran
and confirm lift at 1000 on Monday. Engine service: change
gearbox oil and engine oil (easier with new suction pump), change engine
coolant, clean raw water strainer, check alternator belt tension, check
impellor which looks fine, general check and grease. Excellent multi course
supper at Techo Bajas for €32 together. Saturday 29 February: Coronavirus / Covid 19
seems to be spreading a bit both in Spain and UK. Spend morning cleaning all
carpets & rugs with Bissell cleaner. Sunday 1 March: Work on heads. Take out
diverter valve and clean with acid. Take out tubes – unable to refit long
tube, luckily have spare 3 metres so replace both tubes. Late for barbeque but
still have an enjoyable time. Monday 2 March: Blowing hard. Bicycle to
yard – won’t lift today but rearrange for Wednesday 1000. Collect serviced liferaft
and EPIRB. Big Carrefour. Still blowing hard at
lunchtime but warm and blue sky. Drinks on Guardian Spirit
with John and Carrie. Tuesday 3 March: Fran was quite right to
delay lift as it remains gusty. Decide to cancel trip
through France and book Santander ferry home for 14 March. It seems stupid to
spend several nights in French hotels with Coronavirus Covid 19 getting worse,
particularly in Northern France. Drinks on Ione with Ken
& Jane from Saltair next door. Wednesday 4 March: To yard. Lifted on time
at 1000 but no work done today as several boats lifted. Ione
at ASCAR Thursday 5 March: Yard working hard. Anodes
replaced, scratches on stern glassed, prop cleaned and primed, first coat of
antifoul. Lunch at La Marisqueria
with David & Vicki Lane from At First Sight (USA). In the evening go to
Beethoven concert by the Cartagena Symphony Orchestra: Coriolanus Overture,
Concerto 56 for piano, violin and cello, and Symphony No 4. Ione in yard next to Acier Friday 6 March: Will be blowing hard in
the afternoon, so will stay in yard for the weekend. Saturday 7 March: Polish starboard hull in
the morning then drive to Puerto Mazarron for good lunch at Nueva Bodeguita
which we think was previously del Puerto. Drive up steep and twisty
road to the fort by Cap Tinosa. Fort Castellitos Wonderful views from near
Cap Tinosa. Sunday 8 March: Do some hull polishing
before social barbecue in the marina. Monday 9 March: Finally launched at
lunchtime and return to our berth. Tuesday 10 March: Treat decks with AGlaze.
Now 2 cases of the virus in Cartagena. The whole of Italy is in lockdown and,
in Spain, so is Vittoria Gasteiz. Wednesday 11 March: Much packing etc as we
prepare to leave tomorrow. Evening drinks on Acier
with Malcolm and Verlaine then bike into town for supper at Columbus. We are
the only ones eating and the Plaza Mayor is almost empty – no paseo! Thursday 12 March: Brief trip after
breakfast to Carrefour for some supplies to take home then shut up Ione and
drive to Javea, arriving around 1320 to stay with Glenn and Gwen. Driven round to see the
sights of Javea and hills nearby (plus a couple of bars) before a boozy supper. View over Javea Friday 13 March: Leave Gwen and Glenn after
breakfast for a lengthy but uneventful drive to Calatayud, roads fairly empty. Storks on Calatayud
rooftops Check in again to the
Meson de la Dolores, this time with a rather better room. Before supper have a
glass of wine at a local bar. We are the only people there and it shuts as we
leave, as are all bars in town by decree. Choose the €15 menu del dia at
the hotel, rabbit very dry but at that price we cannot complain. At breakfast
the restaurant is shut due to Covid 19 but the café has an adequate breakfast.
We check out and are the last to leave before the hotel shuts. Meson de la Dolores,
Calatayud Saturday 14 March: Drive north towards
Santander taking a slightly circuitous route to the west to avoid getting near
Vittoria Gasteiz which has many cases of Covid 19. See a huge flock of vultures
in a field by the road – an omen? Picnic by the Embalse del
Ebro before driving to a bay on the coast near Suances to kill time before
catching the ferry. Picnic by the Embalse del
Ebro Board the Cap Finisterre
ferry in Santander which leaves on time at 2030. Lurk in our cabin with a
picnic! Sunday 16 March: A smooth crossing on the
ferry, passing inside the Ile du Sein and up the Four after breakfast. Lunch in
the restaurant – not too many people and they are seating everyone at
alternate tables to keep the distance. Arrive on time in
Portsmouth at 2030 and home at 2200. |