Back in Cartagena - News and Photos

Ione
Tue 6 Oct 2015 16:18

Back in Cartagena – News and Photos

 

It seems an age since we last updated the blog – no excuses; only laziness! We are now back in Cartagena where we plan to leave Ione for the winter and fly home on Friday 9th October.

 

After 5 weeks back in UK we returned to Ione in Addaya on 25th August. With Ione on the hard we were able to touch up the antifouling along the waterline and on the prop as well as fitting the new Bowthruster propeller which we had smashed in Castelsardo.

 

We launched the next day and spent that night in the marina. The cost for 2 nights afloat, 36 nights ashore and the lift + launch was €1020 or £755 – much cheaper than being afloat in any marina in the Balearics.

 

It was good to be afloat again and away from it all so we spent the next two nights anchored in Cala San Olla doing various boat jobs between swims and a visit ashore to the ‘Beach Club’.

 

 

Thence to anchor for another night inside Isla Colom.

 

A classic yacht regatta was being held in Mahon, so the harbour was pretty full. However with Andrew Nicol & Camilla Palmer due to arrive on Monday we wanted to be in harbour to do a bit of shopping. Steve at the Club did come up trumps and we managed to get a slot for both the Sunday and Monday night on the Club Maritimo moorings on the Moll de Llevant.

 

With Andrew and Camilla arriving on a Monday this gave us the excuse to dine at Way’s together with Dereka to listen to Dennis tinkling the ivories.

 

We managed to show Camilla and Andrew a couple of calas on the south coast of Menorca – Calas Porter and Trebuluger – however the weather then turned threatening so on Thursday 3rd September – a day earlier than planned – we headed into Ciutadella passing Richard and Sara Willan on Apse on the way out. Soon the threatened rain started accompanied by thunder – however, snugged up in the cockpit, we could still play a rubber or two of bridge! By evening Apse had also decided that discretion was better than discomfort and had returned to Ciutadella giving an excuse for a boozy session on their huge Hanse 55.

 

 

Friday was slightly better – until more thunderstorms in the afternoon – so we did manage both pre-lunch drinks and supper in the Club. Saturday gave improved weather but sadly Andrew and Camilla had to leave for the airport after lunch.

 

 

We always love Ciutadella so staying over the weekend awaiting our next guests was no hardship – as well as allowing much laundry to be done!

 

Vicky and Peter Ramsden arrived late on Monday evening but in time for a plancha supper and a few bottles of wine. The next day we were able to show them Cala Talé – one of our favourites. Thunder and lightening rolled around us at supper time but we remained dry.

 

Wednesday 9th September was Peter’s birthday and we celebrated with one of the best sails of the year – a broad reach of about 40 miles across to Porto Pollensa on Mallorca. There a taxi ride took us to the old town where we had a superb meal at Manzanas y Peras thanks to P & V.

 

 

Thence to Cala Colobra. Little wind; much motoring; a little rain. We did ramble ashore to the overpriced bar for a glass of wine and to watch the great tits shitting onto the pizzas.

 

From Cala Colobra it was only 8 miles to Soller. A bit of a drift, a bit of a motor and a bit of a sail. With guests due we were extravagant and, rather than anchoring, went into the Ports IB marina. Pauline Turner, her hostess Diny, and two Janes (all old university chums) joined us for drinks before we headed to the Albatross for supper. We were in luck as Joey was playing – we had not heard him for 3 years – and had the usual excellent value tapas and acquired a new CD.

 

From Soller the next stop was Andraitx where Peter had kept his boat for a few weeks some years ago. An opportunity to play Pass the Pigs in a bar!

 

Thence to Cala Portals. Very full when we arrived  - a Sunday – but by evening most motor boats had left and we were able to move further in and re-anchor with a bit more swinging room.

 

 

From Cala Portals it was a short passage on Monday 14th September to Palma where we managed to get a berth next to the RCN swimming pool. Of all the harbours in the Balearics the RCNP berths by the club and swimming pool at €40 per night must be the very best value anywhere. We ate superbly in the old town at Caracol, again thanks to V & P. We had lunched here on a previous visit and the standards have remained very high.

 

 

Sadly Vicky and Peter had to leave us on 15th but we stayed on in Palma for 4 nights in all. As well as enjoying the city we were able to get the forehatch spring re-riveted and a porthole fixed.

 

 

We had visited the cathedral before but it certainly warranted a return. There is now an excellent audio visual commentary.

 

We had booked into Cabrera for a night, but wanting to head to Ibiza and looking at the forecasts we decided that we would have to give this a miss and so sailed to Santa Ponsa for a night before leaving for Ibiza on Saturday 19th.

 

 

Our first stop in Ibiza was Cala Binirras where we enjoyed watching a wedding with the bride arriving by speedboat…

 

 

The sun set over Queen Victoria.

 

From Cala Binirras we lunched in Cala Blanca – peaceful as ever – then to Cala San Vicente. This was a mistake. Unattractive with a shoreline of hotels and an onshore wind and swell. We spent a very uncomfortable night, up at periodic intervals to check our holding. Thank you ROCNA anchor! A stiff beat then took us into Santa Eulalia. We had enjoyed this harbour a few years ago but felt disinclined to climb the hill to the church and so did little other than criticize the endless English menus!

 

The last time we were in Ibiza we had spent little time in Ibiza town so we decided that we should spend a couple of nights in the harbour. Unfortunately the cheapest place – Ibiza Magna – was full. The Club and Marina Ibiza were both charging €102 per night but Marina Botafoch was ‘only’ €70 so we booked in. From here there is a regular ferry at €3.70 to the centre of the town, running late into the night.

 

 

The next day was spent exploring the citadel and old town of Ibiza.

 

 

The old citadel guard house.

 

 

An attractive spot – but much climbing!

 

After three marina nights, a lunch and a supper it was time to economise. We had hoped to spend a night at Escalo on Formentera but on arrival we found the swell uncomfortable and waves breaking on the shore, so not desirable. An about turn and passage between Ibiza and Espalmador took us to the anchorage in Port Roig for the night. We anchored on sand – but thin and over rock. OK in gentle conditions but perhaps unsuitable in a blow.

 

Thence on Friday, 25th September, back to Espalmador where we had booked a buoy. There is now a charge of €29 per night for the buoys. Last time it was free! However it is a delightful spot and as a bonus we were joined for drinks by Kelvin and Kerry Riley from the Hanse ‘Freedom’ on their way west from Turkey. Sadly too many jellyfish to swim.

 

Light winds and a couple of hours motoring took us to Cala Horts on the west coast of Ibiza which seemed a suitable jumping off spot for the mainland. Few jellyfish so a couple of swims.

 

 

In the evening we were entertained by another wedding ashore. Yet again the bride had arrived by motor boat!

 

0645 Saturday 27th September. Alarm. Careful review of forecasts. Nothing wonderful. Looks like heavy rain and thunder on the mainland coast this evening but possibly wetter tomorrow. Decide to leave for the mainland only about 60 miles away. Up anchor and motor out.

 

 

For much of the day it was mainly motoring with little wind then the occasional period of sailing until around 1545 when the thunder, lightening, rain and wind started.

 

 

By this stage we were under the headland of El Rinconet but with little visibility so decided to head for a marina to dry out etc. Calpe marina had space so by 1710 we were secured inside. The first time we have worn oilies for three years!

 

Calpe has nothing to offer apart from the superb view of the ‘Rock of Gibraltar’, so the next day we had a pleasant short sail to Altea. The marina here is both cheaper and more pleasant than that at Calpe. It is quite a walk (and climb) to the old town but well worthwhile.

 

 

The church at the top is not old but the views are superb and there are delightful little streets all around. We ate at a Himalayan restaurant on the front: Excellent food and memories of Kathmandu.

 

 

Studying the present weather we are delighted that we did cross to the mainland on Saturday. The weather over the Balearics has been foul since then. From Altea we sailed to Alicante passing the concrete jungle of Benidorm.

 

We spent two nights in the marina in Alicante. The marina has good facilities, loos, chandlers etc but is huge and impersonal. Functional but not fun.

 

 

However it is only a short walk to the lift to take one to the castle. Its main claim to fame is that it was held by the English in the wars of the Spanish Succession until a wily Frenchman dug a tunnel through the mountain under the fort and blew it up.

 

The other main claim for us in Alicante was L’Atelier – a superb restaurant only a couple of hundred yards from the front. We had a five course lunch for €13 including a beer, well cooked, beautifully presented. Probably our best value meal anywhere in Spain or the Med so far!

 

From Alicante to Torrevieja, anchoring in the outer harbour close to Phil and Jill in Deliverance. Close enough to dinghy across for an excellent supper with them. One of the real joys of this cruising life is meeting old friends. We first met Deliverance in the Mar Menor with Scarlett some 3 years ago. We have since met in Cala Calobra, Addaya and Torrevieja!

 

From Torrevieja we moved south to the Mar Menor. To enter this inland lake one has to pass through the lifting bridge at Tomas Maestre which only opens at 1000 & +2 hours. Hence our timing from Torrevieja was critical. We got this wrong: We thought that there would be no wind so we would have to motor or that there would be enough wind to beat. In the event we started with little wind but then a sailing breeze sprung up but so much on the nose that we could not have beaten into it and still made the 1600 bridge. So motor on it was! We made the 1600 bridge as planned, entered the Mar Menor and then got a superb breeze allowing us to beat in a F5+ to the very south of the Mar Menor where we anchored off a hotel/apartment complex of apparent emptiness and complete silence!

 

 

 

We had three nights at anchor in the Mar Menor

 

 

Enjoying the peace and a magnificent dawn before making our way back through the lifting bridge and round Cap Palos to Cartagena.

 

We received a very warm welcome in Yachtport Cartagena where we had wintered twice, three and four years ago. We are now spending three days putting Ione to bed for the winter – wash cockpit cover and sprayhood, Boracol decks, get Liferaft and outboard serviced etc. We will come back at the end of January to do the more major winter jobs.

 

Now we will entrust ourselves to Ryanair on Friday to take us from Murcia to Bournemouth.

 

Tony & Sarah,

Cartagena – 6 October 2015

Malo 37 – Ione – http://blog.mailasail.com/ione