Sailing Again!

After various delays we finally returned to Ione in Cartagena on 27^th April. Wonderful to be back in the Mediterranean sunshine – but we had heavy rain in the first couple of days and it was still sweater weather for a few days.

We spent the first few days revisiting this beautiful town – Sarah is outside the excellent submarine museum now relocated to the old naval docks – and renewing acquaintances with friends in the marina. It was easy to fall back into the routine of a visit to the market in the morning followed by a caña and tapa on the way back.

Of the places which we have visited so far in Mediterranean Spain, Cartagena is without doubt the most attractive. Much work has been done exposing the old Roman remains and developing a range of museums covering not only the ancient but also the military history of the area and the Civil War. Cruise liners arrive regularly disgorging their tourists for the day then departing in the evening, but there are no high rise hotels or eyesores to be seen from the old town.

Tuesday 2^nd May being a national holiday, we had to wait until the Wednesday to have Ione lifted for a scrub, antifoul and relaunch. We spent the couple of nights ashore staying in a scruffy hotel – a wrong decision as we could have stayed more comfortably on board.

We remained in Cartagena over the weekend before setting off on Monday 7^th heading for an anchorage in the Mar Menor. The Malo 36, Thala, with Melanie & Carl were next to us in Cartagena, so we enjoyed drinks together. Carl had worked for Wiggins Teape many years previously.

Alas, all was not well. The steering was very stiff and squeaking horribly! It had been a bit stiff when we made the short trip to have the boat lifted and I had thought that this was simply due to a mass of barnacles between the top of the rudder and hull which had been cleaned off when we were antifouled, however the problem was clearly more serious. Off the lighthouse of Cabo Palos we decided that we would have to investigate more thoroughly. This meant that anchoring was out – dismantling the steering at anchor did not seem sensible – so we headed to the marina at Tomás Maestre.

The marina, at the entrance to the Mar Menor is not inspiring, surrounded by high rise buildings. However we got a friendly welcome and then set to work on the steering. First the wheel was disconnected – however this was totally free; likewise the Autohelm drive. Using the emergency tiller on the disconnected rudder revealed the squeal to be in the rudder bearings. Ione would have to come out of the water again!

So the next day it was out of the marina, through the opening bridge again and back to sea to return to Cartagena. Luckily the yard said that they could lift us on the following day.

On lifting it became clear that the roller bearing on the rudder stock was jamming. What should have been a relatively simple job of dropping the rudder ended up taking four men four hours aided by hydraulic jacks! However the yard took great care and did an excellent job.

They also had the machinery and material to turn up two new bearings. By the next morning these were fitted and the rudder slipped smoothly into place and by early afternoon we were in the water again. A test sail showed the steering now to be finger light.

A final day was spent in Cartagena recovering from the traumas (& cost!) of the repairs and having a superb tapas supper at El Barril, our favourite bar, together with OCC members Reed & Maren from Cayenne whom we had first met in Rota last year.

So it was finally on Saturday 12^th May that we managed to get away, sailing north past Cabo Palos again, through the bridge, past Tomás Maestre and into the Mar Menor.

Here we anchored behind Isla Perdiguera for three nights. A peaceful spot. In the past there had been bars ashore but now it is a nature reserve with no habitation. Being a weekend there were quite a few boats at anchor in the day but by night only three or four remained. However these did include round the world cruisers Phil & Gill Gordon on Deliverance, and Australians Shani & David on Scarlett so a sociable time was had!

Being basically a big lake with only 6m depth throughout, the Mar Menor was considerably warmer than the sea outside at 27 degrees. At this time of year the jellyfish were not too prolific so we both swam several times!

This Andouin’s gull came to visit us. Slightly smaller than a herring gull and with a red beak tipped with black and yellow. Apparently it is extremely rare and the Mar Menor is one of its few breeding grounds.

On Tuesday we had a gentle beat in the warmth up to Torrevieja where we spent a couple of nights in the marina to refuel, refill water and do a big shop.

Torrevieja is very much a modern holiday town. Much English being spoken. Few buildings of note apart from the modern cathedral. We ate ashore in the marina on the first night, ordering a paella as of course we are now approaching Valencia – the home of paella. After a long delay the owner emerged, head in hands to apologise – his wife had dropped the paella getting it out of the oven and was now cooking us another! In the interim we had an excellent salad on the house and then followed the paella with home-made chocolate mousse, also on the house. The accident proved worthwhile!

To save our euros, for the third night we moved out to anchor in the harbour. The pilot book indicated that anchoring might be discouraged but a Guardia Civil boat passed close by without comment. A pleasant liquid evening was passed with Phil & Gill from Deliverance and David & Shani from Scarlett, repaying the hospitality from Isla Perdiguera.

Yesterday in light winds, with a bit of motoring and a bit of sailing, we came up to Santa Pola where Dave & Shirley Bieber had based Bright Eyes for three years. They were well remembered by the charming Carmen in the office so we had a very warm welcome.

The marina is excellent and modern with restaurant, bars, good loos and washing machines but the town is looking a bit run down with many apartment blocks looking the worse for wear and with many ‘To Let’ signs.

Tomorrow, Sunday 20^th May, we leave Ione to fly from Alicante (only a dozen miles from here) for home. However this will only be for 8 days and we are booked back on Monday 28^th.

Best wishes to all

Tony & Sarah – Ione

Santa Pola – 19 May 2012