The next 12 days

Our last blog took us up to our arrival in Povoa de Varzim on Sunday 5^th June. We were glad to be back in this friendly, dusty harbour and spent the first day being thoroughly idle – general domestic and boat work.

On Tuesday we took the metro to Porto and across the river Douro to Gaia where one gets this superb view of the red roofs of the port wine warehouses to the left and the town itself across the river.

A guided tour of the Offley warehouse, which included some essential tasting of the product, then lunch on the front (two different forms of bacalhao), was followed by a trip on a river boat to see the seven bridges and the old boats which carried the port casks from the vineyards.

On our return to the boat we found that the Rally Portugal fleet of 14 boats had arrived. We have been leapfrogging them down the coast from Baiona. In general a very pleasant bunch, but we have been trying to stay just ahead of them to ensure that we get space in the harbours.

We left Povoa on Thursday 9^th after an excellent wedding anniversary celebration meal at the Club Navale, to make the short hop down to Leixoes. This allowed us to visit a new harbour and also stay half a jump ahead of the rally. The marina at Leixoes is friendly and barely more expensive than the rock bottom prices of Povoa de Varzim. However, although closer to the centre of Porto, transport is not as good and there seem to be fewer shops. It’s a scruffy but cheerful place.

The next day we set off early and had to motor before the wind got up. Only a couple of miles out we picked up a lobster pot line around the keel – this seemed to be a line floating a long way from its marker, rather than the usual sinking line. Luckily we stopped the engine before getting a wrap around the prop and with some tugging and hauling freed ourselves. By midday there was enough wind to sail and we reached Figueira da Foz a couple of hours before the first of the Rally Portugal boats, having covered some 65 miles.

On Saturday we took the train to Coimbra – an interesting journey in part through paddy fields of rice and with sightings of egrets, storks and red and black kites. Coimbra is the oldest university town in Portugal founded in the 13^th century with a fine mediaeval cathedral. We had arrived on the day of the annual mediaeval fair, so the cathedral square was packed with stalls and folk in period dress. Great fun.

From Figueira to Nazaré is 35 miles which we covered on a reach in sunshine and F4 winds – a superb sail. Nazaré is a fishing port where the boats used to be drawn up on the beach. Now a new and well sheltered fishing harbour has been developed – the entrance can be seen at the top of the picture – with two small marinas, one private and one public where we are now moored. The town, with its great sweeping sandy beach, has been developed as a tourist resort, but is not crowded at present as the main holiday season has yet to start.

We have now been in Nazaré for almost a week: in part due to laziness (and part to a stomach bug that seemed to afflict both of us in turn) but mostly to see some of the major attractions inland – Batalha, Alcobaca and Obidos - for which we hired a car.

Batalha Abbey was started in 1386 by King Joao to celebrate his victory over the Spanish the previous year. English longbowmen helped in the battle and Joao married Philippa of Lancaster, signing the Treaty of Windsor which has been the longest-standing treaty of friendship of modern times.

Alcobaca monastery was our next stop. Founded in 1153, it controlled much of the surrounding lands and towns until its dissolution in 1854. Wandering through the cloisters and meeting rooms gave some sense of the pattern of the lives of the 999 monks who lived here in mediaeval times.

Thence to the walled city of Obidos, also known as the Wedding City as it was the traditional bridal gift from the kings of Portugal to their queens from 1282. Although much of it was rebuilt after the 1775 earthquake, its tiny alleys and cobbled streets still retain a mediaeval air.

Now, back on board, we are planning the next moves. Probably Peniche tomorrow, maybe visiting the Ihla da Berlenga if weather allows before moving gradually towards Lisbon.

Best wishes to all

Tony & Sarah

Ione – Nazaré – 18 June 2011