Home from Valencia

 

Our last blog on 14 July saw us in Mahon, Menorca. Since then we have been back to Mallorca and Formentera and thence back to Valencia on the mainland to leave the boat for three weeks for a trip back home.

 

 

 

 

Mahon is a beautiful town with the old part high on a hill overlooking the harbour. One can imagine it in Napoleonic times packed so tight with warships that one could cross the harbour walking over the ships. We had intended to spend only three days there, mainly to see cousin Dennis, however the forecast was such that anchoring in the calas would have been very windy, so we extended our stay to five nights. This would not have been possible without Dennis having negotiated an extremely favourable rate in the marina – all the marinas in the Balearics become ruinously expensive in July and August. However extending our stay was no hardship as we visited museums, walked and bicycled and were also able to meet Terry Saunderson, ex-commodore of the RAFYC now living on the island.

 

 

 

 

From Mahon we sailed back along the south coast of Menorca, looking in at a number of calas but finally returning to our favourite – Cala Talé.

 

 

 

 

On Tuesday 17^th July we took our leave of Menorca and had an excellent sail in a northerly force 4 back to Mallorca. We had previously explored the west coast pretty thoroughly, so now we headed down the east coast looking in to four different calas on the way. Finally we decided on Cala Magraner – above – as the most attractive and least touristy.

 

 

 

 

Cala Magraner is only a couple of miles from Port Colon but is a bit off the beaten track and with no bars, restaurants or buildings so although there were a quite a number of people on the beach it was far from crowded. On our arrival there were over a dozen other craft at anchor but, as we found was the usual pattern, all of the motor boats and most of the local yachts departed in the evening leaving only three other boats and plenty of swinging room.

 

We spent a delightful evening watching two families of mountain goats, each with twin kids, playing on the incredibly steep cliffs and showing an amazing sense of balance. Scores of cormorants were roosting on the cliffs, flying out to sea in the morning and returning each evening. Such a pleasant spot that we spent two idle days there swimming frequently and enjoying the setting.

 

From Cala Magraner we moved on the a lunch stop on Cala Mondrago, very close to the south east tip of Mallorca, before setting off that evening for an overnight passage to Espalmador at the north of Formentera. The wind was generally light so it was a matter of sail a bit then motor a bit, taking us into Espalmador at noon.

 

On our previous visit to Espalmador the Posidonia buoys had not been laid, but this time some forty buoys were in place and we were easily able to find our reserved slot. These buoys have been laid in about ten calas around the islands to prevent damage to the sea grass from anchors and the internet booking system seems to work well and efficiently. Our previous visit had been in early June – now at the height of the holiday season the place was packed but still attractive. We dinghied ashore – setting foot on dry land for the first time in six days – to visit the salt and mud lake on the island. We wallowed in the hot mud which supposedly has therapeutic properties, returning to the boat coated with it and smelling somewhat high!

 

This was also an opportunity to climb the mast. On our night passage I had noticed that the navigation trilight at the top of the mast seemed to be showing white to starboard, green to port and red astern. Earlier in the season we had replaced the anchor light bulb with a low energy LED version. To my shame I had reinstalled the lantern cover 120° out! Easily fixed but an embarrassment!

 

 

 

 

On passage the next day to an anchorage in Cala Saona on Formentera we saw this amazing megayacht named simply ‘A’. Some 350 feet long and built to look like a submarine, ‘A’ is owned by some Russian billionaire. There are huge numbers of massive motor yachts around the islands – who said anything about a recession – but this was one of the most extreme.

 

Cala Saona was a bit of a disappointment. It is a wide bay with lots of anchoring space but was absolutely packed with boats as it was a Saturday night.

 

Some time ago we had decided to return to UK for three or four weeks from late July to avoid the height of the holiday season. With marina prices in the Balearics being sky high at this time of year it seemed sensible to plan to return to the mainland. With advice from OCC friends Reed and Maren on Cayenne we had identified Valencia as a suitable spot, having a reasonably priced marina and being near an airport. Now was the time to decide on how best to get there. Our initial thoughts were to head up to San Antonio on Ibiza for the night and then cross to Valencia over the following night. However a Sunday night at anchor off San Antonio, with its host of clubs and bars, did not seem attractive so we opted to head for Denia on the mainland direct from Cala Saona.

 

The passage to Denia was superb. Initially there was little wind, so we had to motor at the start. However, knowing that we were going to be able to refill our water tanks that evening, this gave the opportunity for long and luxurious showers! As the wind filled in, up went the cruising chute, initially still with some assistance from the engine, then it was off engine, then change the chute for genoa, then a roll in the genoa, then a reef and by the time we were approaching Denia we were broad reaching in SE force 6.

 

 

 

 

We had a very friendly welcome in the new marina in Denia – indeed we have always had such friendliness in every harbour we’ve visited – and wandered ashore for an excellent meal of sardines and tapas. It felt slightly strange wearing shoes and walking on tarmac again!

 

Apart from a couple of hotel blocks, Denia is an attractive town, set against a backdrop of hills and with an old fortified castle at its centre. Additionally it is convenient: there is a large Mercadona supermarket only ten minutes walk away on the level. Hence we spent a second day there re-provisioning, doing the laundry and the general cleaning needed before leaving the boat.

 

From Denia we headed to Valencia, a six hour passage with similar winds to those on our passage from Formentera. An hour’s motoring then a rising wind to reach Valencia in a SE force 6 again.

 

The marina we had chosen in Valencia – Marina Real Juan Carlos 1 – was built specifically for the America’s Cup five years ago, so very modern but a long way from anywhere. The new Formula 1 racetrack has also been built around the area, with a bridge crossing the marina channel. Roads had been modified such that all the roundabouts and street furniture is removable for racing. The marina prices are generally low but then increase tenfold for race weeks.

 

 

 

 

To get into the centre of Valencia from the marina is a bit of a trek – five minutes on bicycles to the tram station, three stops on the tram to the metro interchange and then twenty minutes more into the centre. However a worthwhile journey as the area around the cathedral and Santa Catalina square is very attractive. Sadly there are many signs of the recession and economic woes of Spain in the number of empty apartments and boarded up shops behind the main squares. As well as pounding the streets we sampled the local beverage, horchata, which is made from tiger nuts and looks rather similar to a milkshake but much more delicious.

 

On the next day, Thursday 26 July, it was time to fly home. Strange to be back living indoors after a couple of months afloat! We are now in UK until 21^st August when we will return to Valencia and see which way the wind is blowing.

 

Sarah & Tony Boas

1^st August 2012