We are now half way through our second period on Ione so it seems time to set pen to paper or whatever is the electronic equivalent.

We left Ione on 8 May in Menorca on the Moll de Llevant in Mahon to return home for nearly 4 weeks. All was well when we got back on board on Tuesday 31^st May and it was a pleasure to again be able to have a tapas meal on the front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Friday 3^rd June the forecast was for light south or south west winds and little swell between Menorca and Corsica so it seemed a good opportunity to set off. We left at 1800 and, once outside, were able to set full sail on a course of 60° for Propriano in Corsica some 240 miles distant.

Unfortunately by 0200 the wind had dropped away so on went the engine and indeed we had to motor for most of the rest of the way.

24 hours out and some 95 miles from Propriano we had another close review of the Pilot book. Our plan had been to circuit Corsica clockwise, however if we started in Propriano we would miss out the bit of the coast between Propriano and Bonifacio which we had never visited. Hence a change of plan and a 10° alteration towards Figari, almost the same distance away.

We reached the Baie de Figari at 0900 and by 1000 were secured in the little marina Calderello. 240 miles covered in 40 hours – a comfortable passage but too much motoring!

Calderello is a pleasant enough place but with no facilities. We had to walk a couple of miles to find a bar where we watched the last bit of the French tennis final, Murray loosing. We also noticed that one sponson of the dinghy had gone soggy and discovered a leak in an impossible spot. Tried twice to fix a patch.

 

 

The next day we started our clockwise circuit of Corsica, anchoring in the pretty Roccapina Bay where we had our first swims. Inflating the dinghy showed that whilst the leak had diminished, it was still evident and unlikely to be able to be repaired. The nearest place to get a replacement would be Bonifacio which meant aborting our clockwise circuit and heading in the opposite direction. In the event this was a fortuitous decision as during the next week it blew hard on the west coast whilst being gentler on the east side of Corsica.

 

 

 

 

We had been in Bonifacio last year but the sight of the citadel never ceases to amaze. It is very much a tourist resort and the restaurants on the front are nothing remarkable, although we did eat out once, and those in the citadel are similar but more expensive. However there is an excellent chandler and we were able to buy a new dinghy at a not exorbitant price.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Which gave superb views over the harbour and marina.

Leaving Bonifacio on 10^th June we had an interesting passage through the dog leg close to the coast to the anchorage at Rondinara which at this stage of the season was not yet crammed with boats.

Thence to Solenzara for a couple of nights. A welcoming spot with a surprisingly good meal at the Glacier du Port.

 

 

 

We left Solenzara at dawn, with a lovely early light on the Corsican hills, to make passage to Elba, some 70 miles away. Most of the passage was motoring or motor-sailing and after 11 hours we anchored in the Golf de Lacona on the south coast of Elba. We had anchored here before and had a comfortable night but this time the wind – albeit light- pushed us across the swell and we had a very rolly night.

 

 

 

The next day, Tuesday 14^th June, we covered the dozen miles into Porto Azzurro by noon. There, as planned we managed to meet up again with Ray and Judy Steward on Start Again. We first met four years ago in Cartagena and since then have managed to cross paths for a few days every year, variously in Ibiza, Menorca, Sardinia, Corsica and now Elba. Such meetings are one of the joys of the cruising life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent three nights enjoying the company of Ray & Judy and the relaxed atmosphere of Porto Azzurro….

 

 

 

…before going round to the north of the island past the scarred hillside of Rio Mar. Iron ore was mined in Elba from before Roman times and there is still evidence of old workings.  Passing Porto Ferraio we spent the night anchored in the Golf de Viticcio, one of our favourite spots, where we enjoyed several swims.

The forecast for the next couple of days was not good so we initially thought we would go into the marina on the Italian mainland coast at Salivoli. We tried to raise them initially by telephone and then by VHF but it was only when we were a mile off that we got a reply that they were full for 3 days with an ‘event’.

 

 

 

We therefore scurried back to Porto Azzurro where we could get some shelter from the westerly wind and impending thunder, and anchored just outside the harbour in 10 metres on mud – good holding. This is a popular spot at weekends and there were 60 boats there on our first night. However there was space for all, and all bar two seemed to hold well in the strong blow overnight. Truly a multinational crowd – Belgian, British (3), Czech, French, German, Maltese, Portuguese, Spanish and of course Italian. Throughout the next day there were strong gusts and heavy bouts of rain so we spent a peaceful day on board, not even swimming.

On Monday 20^th June and we decided to head north up the Tuscan coast. The marina at San Vincenzo seemed to be charging €110 per night but a dozen miles further north the harbour at Cecina, 40 miles from Porto Azzurro, seemed more reasonable. We had an excellent passage. Initially an hour under engine to clear Elba then hard on the wind in a WNW4, needing but one short tack, to reach Cecina.

 

 

 

Marina di Cecina is a delight. At present it is only part completed with around 200 berths and neither fuel nor shops. However there are ambitious plans for 800 berths, 60 apartments, a spa etc. Work is still progressing but what they have done has been done very well. Prices are low at €40. The disadvantage is that it is 1½  miles from the village and 3 miles from the town and railway station. However no problem for us with our new bicycles!

 

 

 

We cycled to the station and found that Pisa is only an hour by train from Cecina. An ideal town for sightseeing as everything is within walking distance. We had not realised or had forgotten that the Baptistery, Cathedral and Bell Tower were all in the same square and easily visited on a single ticket.

 

 

 

Magnificent murals in the Camposanto

 

 

 

And lovely buildings in the attractive Piazza dei Cavalieri.

 

 

 

 

The next day – UK referendum day – we took the train to Firenze. This time two hours from Cecina. First stop the Baptistery and Cathedral. Magnificent from the outside but huge queues to get in. If we visit again we should get a Firenze Card to get priority entrance.

 

 

 

Away from the Duomo the crowds were slightly less. All nationalities but a huge number of oriental faces. Looking at the Ponte Vecchio and river Arno today it is hard to believe the river level in the floods of 1966.

 

 

 

Less crowded and more delightful was Santa Maria Novella

 

 

 

With magnificent frescoes in the Spanish Chapel.

On Friday 24^th June we woke to the depressing news that the English and Welsh had voted to leave the EU. It seemed that the majorities of the older – those with less than 15 years to live – had voted out whilst the majority of the young – with their futures ahead of them – wanted to stay in. We found ourselves having to give some sort of limp explanations to the Italians and Germans around us.

However the wind was fair – NW3-4 – so we set sail for the island of Capraia 35 miles from Cecina where we arrived at 1700. The harbour was fully booked so we took a mooring buoy at €25 per night as opposed to €65 in the harbour.

 

 

 

The Capraia mooring system is interesting. There are 20 mooring buoys separated by about 5 metres. Each buoy has six lines, two bow lines and four stern lines, two each port and starboard so that each buoy can take two boats facing each other. Ideally one picks up the bow line, which is attached by a strong chain to the sea bed, and then the two stern lines which are lazy lines and lead to large lines astern. Simple in principle but not easy with a strong cross wind. Luckily we had the help of the harbour RIB pulling and pushing us. However quite comfortable and safe once secured.

 

 

 

The next morning, after a swim, we dinghied ashore to the little harbour; attractive albeit a bit touristy.

 

 

 

Rowing back we saw that most of our neighbours had already left and we did likewise.

 

 

 

Leaving Capraia one could look back at the fortifications. Nelson briefly took Capraia but did not consider it worth retaining for long.

An easy sail in F3 took us from Italy to France and Port Toga, 1 miles north of Bastia in the NE corner of Corsica. We enjoyed a few days here last year and are now doing the same.

As for the next stage – we are due to take Ione to Fertilia, near Alghero, on 23 July and then we will fly home on 25 July for 4 weeks. This gives us almost 4 weeks to go round Cap Corse and sail the west coast of Corsica and then south to the NW part of Sardinia. We will see what the weather dictates!

Tony & Sarah,

Port Toga, Bastia, Corsica – 26 June 2016

Malo 37 – Ione

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