From Port Napoleon to Toulon - and all stops in-between
Many apologies to eager readers for the absence of an earlier report – we have been trying to sort out a software problem linking my digital Canon camera with my new HP laptop. The camera has refused to recognise the Windows 7 system and has refused to download any photos. We think we have now created a temporary fix – to allow this report to include photographs - but I think the original Canon software will have to be reloaded into the laptop to achieve a permanent solution. The story so far ……. We arrived at Port Napoleon on Friday, 6th May after a train, aeroplane and taxi ride from home. We spent the first few days preparing Eliza B for launch the following week but discovered a faulty seacock which required replacement. Fortunately this was promptly dealt with and the launch went ahead as planned on Tuesday May 10th.
The following day we went for a quick sea trial to make sure the engine was working well and we had put the sails back correctly. The weather forecasts for Friday looked good with a northerly force 4 to 5 dropping to 2 to 3 later in the day so that was chosen as our departure date.
We slipped at 10 am on Friday morning and enjoyed our first sail for over a year. The sailing was briefly interrupted when we passed a small fishing boat which was anchored but who was calling us rather than just a courtesy wave. We dropped the sails and motored over to him but just then a large motor boat hove into view and took over the rescue project – he was much better equipped to tow the fishing boat back into harbour. So we continued our journey with a warm glow of righteousness.
We arrived at Marseille Vieux Port and practiced our Mediterranean stern-to by reversing into a mooring space just inside the harbour entrance. On Friday night we explored an older part of the town, Le Panier, and found an interesting place to eat. We stayed in Marseille for three days and took a bus tour to explore the town. On the second night, Saturday, and all the third day a Mistral blew forcing us to check our lines regularly. We recorded gusts of 41 knots – the equivalent of a force 9 gale! In fact it was so bouncy on the boat we went for a walk to explore the town further. On Saturday evening we visited Vallon des Auffes, which is a pretty small inlet where they used to make ropes and now specialise in very busy restaurants.
At the end of the port, the fishermen still unload their nets and sell the fish to the public. We also visited the magnificent church which dominates the skyline of Marseille, Notre Dame de la Garde, and from where we had a 360 degree view of the town and its surrounding countryside. The piece of netting, which was accidentally draped around the arm of the statue, shows how strong the wind was blowing during the day.
Cassis is only a few miles down the coast from Marseille and we enjoyed a gentle downwind sail at about 4 knots. En route we passed the famous Callanques which are deep cuts in the coastline. They are not very easy to see from the seaward end as the cuts suddenly open up to reveal the sea-filled ravine with a small settlement of houses at the end. The photos don’t do the scenery justice but they look very dramatic in the aerial photos and it is very popular with walking groups.
Cassis is a small fishing port which has now been converted into a very pleasant marina with bars and restaurants facing onto the water. Mooring, in reverse, proved more challenging within the confines of the small harbour since the capitaine directed us to a berth between a row of motor boats and as we were reversing gently one of our twin keels got caught on their anchor lines, so preventing us from moving into the slot. However, with much grimacing, the capitaine helped us to manoeuvre satisfactorily. It is a very pretty little port with a nice beach so we decide to stay for two nights.
On the Wednesday there was a very colourful market in the town square. And we found an artistic dustbin which made us chuckle.
Next day we departed and decide to practice our anchoring skills in the small bay off Ciotat. After a leisurely lunch we weighed anchor and continued our journey round the next headland into Sanary-sur-Mer. We met and shared wine with another Moody-owning couple who had just arrived (and who, we later discovered, we had met on one of our Greek flotilla holidays some years before). Another pretty little harbour and town. In the harbour we discovered a number of very colourful old fishing boats – lovingly restored – which seemed to operate a junk-type sailing plan.
The next day we set out on the short trip to Toulon. Hardly any wind but an uncomfortable swell which made the motor-sail journey rather tedious and we were quite pleased to arrive in the large Naval port of Toulon where we intend to stay for a couple of nights. Ron & Elizabeth HOWARD Eliza B, Moody 36 (1998) + 44 7768 816 579 + 33 (0)6 11 66 79 08 http://blog.mailasail.com/elizab |
