We arrived at Menton-Garavan yesterday afternoon after a great 2 hours downwind sailing from Aregai.  It was a challenge getting out of the Aregai berth in the morning with a strong cross-wind but a helpful marina assistant used his RIB to make sure we didn’t get fouled on the next boat’s lazy lines.  Once we were out of the marina and turned down-wind it was great sailing – although slightly rolling.  The wind dropped just about mid-day and we had to resort to engine.  The rain started as we approached this marina and we both got soaked as we sorted out the correct berth.

It rained very heavily in the early hours of this morning and we have just arranged to stay here for an extra night.  (We think we have a better chance of getting a berth in Monaco on a Monday night rather than a Sunday.) We have just met up with Ronald of “In de Roos” and exchanged photos (see below).

We started the week leaving the nice friendly port of Arenzano en route for Savona.  Not much wind but a rolling sea so a rocky, but sunny,  trip down to Savona.  We stopped in the bay just before the entrance to Savona harbour for lunch and a swim.

Savona is a busy working port with areas for cargo and cruise ships.  We had to keep well to the right – past the cruise ship and then under the pedestrian footbridge into the inner harbour right in the middle of the old town.

The bridge opens every hour, on the half-hour but - for some reason – it opened for us at 15:10 and allowed us to moor in the Old Dockyard right in the middle of the old town.  The tower next to the bridge is the Torretta built in 1312. 

Just across the water of the inner harbour are some mediaeval towers and nearby are some of the noble buildings and the very ornate cathedral frontage. The photo on the left is the frontage of one of the Pope’s residences (Savona has produced two popes during the 15^th century and claims it is unique in doing so.)  The face of the building is a tromp d’oeil – a flat surface cleverly painted to give the effect of elaborate carvings.

Later that afternoon, we walked around the town and had a coffee and amaretti biscuit  The café was in the Mameli Square, which contains the war memorial.  At 18:30 every day, the large bell atop of the statue is struck 21 times to commemorate the fallen.  All traffic around the square stops and everybody stands in respectful silence.  We were there when it happened and it is quite unusual.

We stayed for an extra day and decided to explore the very large fortress which had been built by the Genoans in the sixteenth century to guard the town (and probably to keep an eye on them as well).  There is a spectacular view of the coastline and also over the town from the top of the fortress.  The photo shows the view over the old harbour.

Catching the hourly opening of the lifting bridge, we departed Savona at 10:30 on Wednesday morning and motor-sailed downwind.  We did try sailing for an hour but the wind speed was only enough to move us at about two knots; so we altered course and headed for Alassio (another small and friendly marina).  It was a far distance from the town so we satisfied ourselves with a walk around the marina and a drink on board.  While we were sitting on board, we were amazed to see a couple paddling a 25/27 foot sailing boat back into the marina.  Apparently, their outboard engine had failed (“and not for the first time” the gentleman said).  The first photo shows Elizabeth indulging one of foible, viz. cooling her feet off the sugar-scoop while we are sailing gently along. 

On Thursday we enjoyed about two-and-half hours of downwind sailing from Alassio to Aregai during which time we are passed by a Westerly with the Dutch couple we had already met.  We first met Ronald & Peta when we moored alongside them in Genoa. We then crossed paths again in Savona, and shared a bottle of wine.  Their boat name, “In de Roos”,  means ‘on target’, ‘going well’ or ‘in the pink’.  We met again about an hour ago, in Menton and exchanged photos of our boats under sail.

Aregai is a little north of San Remo and the number of greenhouses give evidence of the market gardening and flower growing activities for which San Remo is well-known. 

With the strong breeze (F4) in the marina, getting the boat straight in the berth was quite a challenge.  On Friday, the weather forecast was for stronger winds and bumpy seas so we decided to stay an extra night in Aregai.

When we left Aregai on Saturday morning, we had the benefit of a following wind to give us two hours of downwind sailing until it was replaced by motoring in the rain.  We were surprised to discover that Menton-Garavan – on the French side of the Italian-France border – was so busy and we were lucky enough to be offered a berth (the next boat in was turned away!).  It was “for one night only” but we managed to convince the Capitainerie this morning to fit us in for another night.  We will go and explore Menton this afternoon and find somewhere to enjoy a French meal this evening. 

We are hoping to be able to stay at Monaco as our next stop.  However, we may not be large enough or posh enough to be allowed to grace their berths.  We shall see!

Ron.

Ron & Elizabeth HOWARD

Eliza B,  Moody 36 (1998)

+ 44 7768 816 579

+ 33 (0)6 11 66 79 08

http://blog.mailasail.com/elizab