After our brief visit to La Spezia, we left Porto Turistico Benedetti on Tuesday morning and took the short-cut past Port Venere out of the bay.  It looked just a pretty as before when we stayed there.

Shortly after we were inspected by a coastal rescue helicopter.

In contrast to the flat coastline south of La Spezia bay, and the occasionally uncomfortable rolling seas, once we emerged through the cut in the rocks (at Port Venere), the coastal scenery is very different – deep water and very steep rocks.  Onto these hillsides are built some very pretty villages and some rather impressive buildings with magnificent views.  This must be one of the prettiest stretches of the northern Italian coast.

As a change from stopping in “boat parks” – as Elizabeth refers to the large marinas – we decided to visit Vernazza, a very small port on the pretty coastline although there had been warning comments about its “smallness” in the pilot books.  We found the place and went in close to see how small.

The entrance is to the left of the wall of rocks and it was obvious that there was no space for us – or any other sailing boats.  We were expected to hook up to one of the many buoys just outside the harbour.  So we decided to carry on to the next small marina at Sestri Levante.  Just before reaching there, we passed Point Marconi, where G Marconi was reputed to have conducted telegraphic experiments.  (I always thought he did those at Alum Bay, I.O.W. but perhaps he had to check that his system worked in English as well as Italian!).

Sestri Levante is a little harbour in a small bay.  The pilot book advises that it is possible for yachts to moor against the quayside so we decided to try it. You enter the harbour round the breakwater stones shown on the left of the picture.  We decided we could drop our anchor and then back into the space between the two yachts and the rocks (where the fishermen were).

However, as soon as we got into place, there was obviously some consternation on the two other boats.  Apparently the second boat in had dropped his anchor over the anchor chain of the first boat.  The pictures above show the second boat trying to go out again to re-lay his anchor and then confirming that he had collected his neighbour’s chain.  This caused concern for Elizabeth who was not convinced we had laid enough anchor chain to hold us off the quayside.  So we went out again took up our anchor and then relaid it with 40 metres of chain.  Satisfied we were now OK, we decided to walk ito town – the other side of the bay – and found a recommended restaurant where we had a splendid meal.

It was on this walk that we saw the parking sign. It is obvious that this (international) road sign indicated that parking was limited during the high season to three hours and you were expected to use the meters.  But we couldn’t work out if it allowed exceptions if you were working or at church (or if you were communist or dead).

Next morning we departed in text-book fashion by picking up our anchor and fouling nobody else (much to our relief) and set off to Santa Margherita.  On the way, we went in close to admire Portofino – another very picturesque (and expensive) small habour inlet surrounded by very elegant houses and attracting some very expensive boats.

 The port of Santa Margherita was just a few miles beyond Portofino and they found us a berth for the night.  The second picture shows the pretty waterfront of the town.

Next day (Thursday) we found the entrance to the large port of Genoa, although we had to give way to a very large cruise ship which was coming out as we approached.  We then knew our way round the harbour to reach the Porto Antico which was only about 100 metres from the town.  This new marina – which has been established in part of the inner port, is very friendly and convenient.  It almost must be able to claim the highest quality of toilets and showers in the whole Mediterranean.  The facilities would not be out-of-place in a 5 star hotel.  We also had an enjoyable inexpensive meal in a small trattoria we had discovered on our previous visit.

Before leaving Genoa, we decided to top up the fuel tank but were faced with problems of slow filling – a problem we have had before and we presumed indicated a problem with the breather tube to the fuel tank.

The short trip to Arenzano, about 13 miles, was calm and sunny.  Arenzano is another very small friendly marina and we were pleased to arrive and we decide to stay here for three nights.  This gave plenty of time to carry out an engine-oil change, replace the oil filter and check through the fuel breather pipe.  Couldn’t identify any obvious problem but I think it might be wise to have the fuel tank emptied and cleaned once we arrive at our winter berth.

Temperatures still very high and not much wind.  Next stop is likely to be Savona.

Ron & Elizabeth HOWARD

Eliza B,  Moody 36 (1998)

+ 44 7768 816 579

+ 33 (0)6 11 66 79 08

http://blog.mailasail.com/elizab