First leg home-bound

Infinity of Yar
Giles & Jane Peckham
Sun 5 May 2024 01:05

32:22.84N 64:40.54W

Having picked up Cordelia, Mike and Cathie, we sailed to Key Bay to give them all some snorkelling and a night at anchor before a night in Village Cay Marina on Tortola to prepare for our passage to Bermuda.  The forecast models remained confident that we would have a period of easterly trade-winds, followed by some strong headwinds but opinions varied regarding the last part of the passage.  With nothing sinister in any of the forecasts, we thought we should set off on Wednesday 24th April as planned and accept an uncomfortable couple of days in the middle of the passage.

Although the models had told us to expect a temperature drop of one degree C per day, we were not expecting it to feel quite so different.  Those extra layers of clothing we’d stored away a few months earlier came out for the night watches and day by day we were adding hats, boots and long trousers.  Still warm and dry compared with the weather in Britain but quite a shock for us!

The swell slowly built and by the time we hit the head-winds the sea became quite lumpy.  The wind built to a steady 20kts to 24kts and the sea became horribly confused. 

We avoided the pounding a bit by sailing a little more free but still, life below was unpleasant and life on deck was wet!  Hatches were leaking too, so our bed was wet and the bilges were collecting water from somewhere.  By the time the wind started to die some 40 hours later, the boat was caked in salt and the saloon and forward cabin were in a mess.  Still, Infinity took it all and the crew kept their food down.  Somehow, Jane continued to serve delicious meals from the galley and keep her smiley face on despite her hip (needs replacing) preventing her from sleeping much.  The rest of us are just in awe.

When the wind did eventually die, it dropped very quickly and we motored for over 20 hours before the NW wind kicked finally in.

The sun came out, everyone caught up on sleep and had a shower, and the mood lifted again.  Even Starlink, which had gone down with the electronic version of mal de mer, decided it could cope with the conditions again.  We were relieved to be able to report in to everyone who was following us that all was well.  Ed, who was 3 days ahead of us, had worse conditions and he was sailing solo in a smaller boat.  Hats off to you Ed!  Somehow, Ed even managed to land and eat a Mahi Mahi, while we continued to catch nothing but Sargasso weed.  Still nothing edible since leaving Las Palmas.  Surely it’s our turn now?

Nearing Bermuda we were hoping to catch a glimpse of some hump-backed whales at the end of their migration season.  Alas, the whales were as elusive as the fish.  On the bright side, the wind held until we were almost at St. George’s, our destination on the Eastern end of Bermuda. 

Now, Bermuda has strict import rules regarding certain fruit and vegetables.  We had stocked up with a lot of carrots and we were running out of time to eat them or turn them into something acceptable to customs.  We had a considerable carrot-processing plant in full operation at the cockpit table and grated carrot liberally distributed around the cockpit.  We ate carrot muffins, carrot curry, carrot crudites and the Kimchi jar was filled to the brim. 

We arrived at St. Georges around 1am and headed straight in.  The entrance is easy as it has to accommodate cruise liners and tankers.  Soon we could smell the Bermuda cedar and hear the tree frogs.  Lovely!  We dropped anchor and started to get ready for bed.  Then Cathie mentioned a celebratory drink.  Well, there wasn’t much resistance to that idea so the special rum came out and bed was put on hold.

In the morning we were supposed to check in at the customs and immigration office but we still had some raw carrots to deal with!  Back to the processing plant…  I should also note here that Kimchi is just one of Jane’s new health foods we’re all being treated to.  Kimchi, Kefir and sourdough cultures are all quietly taking over the fridge.  Apparently this is all good for our gut biome and we’re going to live long and healthy lives.  Well, if that means we can do this all over again then I’m up for it!

Grating and cooking done, we took the boat to the customs dock and had the most pleasant welcome of any island so far.  Similar process, different people.

It’s good to be back in Bermuda.

Giles