A month in Antigua
18:27.96N 64:25.21W After a delightful couple of days in Nonsuch Bay, we completed our circumnavigation of Antigua via the north coast to Jolly Harbour. After landing two Barracuda en route (which aren’t edible due to Ciguatera), we gave up fishing around islands. At Jolly Harbour we were treated to a dock at the back of Chris & Pam Mansfield’s house. They were so helpful in so many ways throughout our stay on Antigua. That first night the mosquitoes ganged up on Jane. She was bitten 47 times! We showered ourselves in repellent after that and they didn’t really bother us too much again. Ian and Michel Simpkin, friends from Blighty who have a house on Antigua treated us to lunch at Sheer Rocks, a wonderful place to eat, overlooking the sea, where we could easily have spent many more hours. Next on the social calendar was a beach BBQ with the Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, thanks to Chris & Pam who also took us to watch the start of the Caribbean 600 race from the hilltop overlooking the start line outside English Harbour. Race starts are so easy to win when you can see them from above! Josh, Jess and granddaughter Julia joined us and we sailed around to Davis Bay and Great Bird Island for a bit of snorkelling, paddle-boarding and good quality family time. Julia was intrigued with the iguanas on the beach. So many new things to experience. On again to Green Island and more cocktails at The Rocks before we headed back to Falmouth Harbour so Josh & Jess could have a few days of diving while Jane did the grandmother thing. Except that we’re not allowed to say grandmother. Or granny, or ma. Just “Jane”, or “Dane” if you’re a two-year-old. Sunday night is Shirley Heights night, so we took Julia there (with her mum and dad). She’s quite a mover on the dance floor! Funny how we have to sail to the other side of the Atlantic to meet old friends from home. Ian and Michel organised lunch for us with Jess & Paul Jameson. Paul is inspirational. His entrepreneur attitude and wicked sense of humour prevail over his MND. Makes us realise how lucky we are to be able to get on with our bucket list. We then motored the short distance to English Harbour and docked at Nelson’s Dockyard. Expensive but nice. Nelson’s Dockyard is home to the Tot Club, which started when naval rum rations were stopped and ensures that members can still share a tot of rum at 6pm every day. Many thanks to Rodney Barton for making the introduction and to Mike for hosting us. We loved the ritual and had to return the next day for another tot! February 29th doesn’t come around very often, so Jane’s birthday party was something to celebrate. She was honoured that so many friends had the same thought. Twenty five of us sat down to a delightful lunch at Boom (where Nelson’s Dockyard’s gunpowder store used to be!). Thanks to everyone for making it a special day for Jane. After a short dip in the pool, Jane wanted to finish the day at Shirley Heights. Birthday girl got her way of course. By now, Jane’s sister Cindy, husband Jerry and my new Starlink system had joined us. After a bit of fiddling with wires we finally had good internet coverage whenever we wanted it. No more embarrassingly poor video calls with work colleagues and customers! Next stop, Green Island, but we had to subject Jerry to a lumpy sail to get there. One good thing about having to stare at the horizon to avoid being seasick is that you get to spot the wildlife. Jerry found a whale for us. The next day we dropped Jerry off and picked up Andy & Jacqui. The process involved borrowing Ed’s dinghy (ours was in for repair) and relocating to Emerald Cove, where the airport taxi could meet us. It was also a short hop to where Ian and Michel had their house, so we had lunch with them. Almost perfect planning and execution. The only hiccup was when I dropped the dinghy painter while wearing nothing but a towel. No time to think as the wind got under the dinghy and started whisking it away. I threw the towel aside and dived in, grabbed the dinghy and returned to the boat to find my lovely sister-in-law with her camera, capturing all the action and relieving me of any dignity I might otherwise have preserved. Crew change complete, we set sail for Barbuda. Incredible beaches, good snorkelling, dinner at Uncle Roddy’s and drinks at Shaka-kai with the 1980s Daring fleet (Galatea and Adastrina). The rest of the team went to see the Frigate birds and the pink beach. I only saw the stunning photos as I had to get on with some work :-( Back to Antigua and into Deep Bay, where a shipwreck was waiting to be snorkelled over. Very dramatic in gloomy water. Then finally to Chris & Pam’s dock again where Andy again excelled and helped fit the RodKicker and fix the hydro generator. With friends and family departed, Jane and I then headed off into the sunset for an overnight sail to Sint Maarten. What a refreshing change that place is. Not exactly charming or culturally interesting but a great place to get the boat in shape. Very good value work done with a European (ie. not Caribbean) work ethic, and two well-stocked and reasonably-priced chandlers within walking distance. Our jib and spray hood were spruced up by Nettie (fellow Daring sailor!) and Gill (friend of Amanda’s from Cowes). Our engine and outboard were expertly serviced by Ton (friend of Nettie’s) and we picked up a new dinghy (Hyperlon this time, not PVC). Two other highlights were the spectacle of the SpaceX rocket launch from Cape Canaveral and beers at $1 a piece at the Soggy Dollar bar! Off into the night once again. This time to Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. A lovely calm sail with Sturdeee not far behind us. We’ll be in the BVI for three weeks, which I’m sure won’t be enough! Giles |