21 July - Grande Riviere, Trinidad 10:50.058N 61:02.772W

Opus
Bridget & Nick Gray
Sat 21 Jul 2012 20:00
Sailed along the north coast of Trinidad to this bay where more Leatherback turtles nest than anywhere else in the world - the largest and most endangered of the sea turtles, unchanged for the last 120million years! During the height of the nesting season they can have as many as 400 on the beach in one night. We had and extraordinary time there, anchoring near the 'big rock with trees' in the photograph. Saw glistening 'fins' in the water which Max thought were Manta rays - went to investigate by rowing in the dinghy and Max was right! 2 beautiful beasts about 5 feet in diameter that came to check us and the dinghy out. Max tried to photograph them under the water but they disappeared when he got in. 
We then managed to get ashore on a beach with large breaking waves, nearly capsized the dinghy and got very wet! Had a damp supper and then discovered we didn't have enough money! Restaurant very happy for us to come back in the morning..............luckily. Waited for turtles until 01.30 watching a bizarre loop of turtles photographs to an equally bizarre sound track of bad pop music. When one had established where she was going to lay, we all set off to watch. They are huge, about 2m long and weigh in at one ton.  They go into a kind of trance when they are laying and so we got to stroke her - very exciting, and very soft in between the leathery bits. I understand the area has received bad press recently for 'destroying eggs to protect a hotel'.  As always the information is wrong.  Their river burst its banks and changed course, threatening the hotel, many homes and a large proportion of the nesting beach.  The work undertaken was to restore the original course of the river where a small number of turtle nests are always 'destroyed' as they are washed away by the river. It is a fairly remote community of about 400 and they now recognise the importance of their turtles. Half of the local people are directly involved in the conservation and tourism that they bring. It was the right thing to do and I obviously needed to defend them a bit! The return to the boat at 04.00 was just as difficult and wet with the additional of a tropical downpour! Not your average Saturday night.
The next morning I swam to shore to pay the bill and got these photos of the vultures waiting for eggs to wash out or hatchlings to appear. Only 1 in 1000 babies return to breed on the same beach, about 20 years later..............

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image