The windy Aegean

We moved from the
anchorage at Matezana, Astipalaia on Tuesday morning when the wind had subsided
and made our way to the town of
We had some difficulty making the boat safe as
the wind was determined to smash the back of the boat against the concrete quay.
Eventually, after over an hour since we dropped the anchor and took lines
ashore, the boat was secured and we went ashore to make our purchases. Skala is
a delightful, unspoilt little town but with too many steps for me just now. I
cannot believe how long it is taking to regain my strength following that nasty
bug that attacked me while we were in the Middle-east. We rose at At 10.30 we were again on our way to Amorgos,
whose claim to fame is that it was used as the setting for the film, The Grand
Bleu. Nonetheless, this island is not on the main tourist route, remaining
unspoilt and therefore, for us, a lovely place to visit. Within the hour we put a reef in the main sail
but shook it out later as the wind decreased as we moved away from the
The pod containing the auto-pilot became
detached from the boat, other than by the cables linking it to the instruments
below. We tied it onto the bimini supports to stop it being buffeted by the
movement of boat. I started to wonder if perhaps we should have
set to sea today. It was after all, the 13th of the month, though not
a Friday. Then I wondered, as things generally happen in threes, what the
3rd misfortune was likely to be. When the trim fell off the port side
cross-trees, I was relieved. I am not really superstitious but I don’t care to
tempt fate. Three hours before we reached our anchorage on
Amorgos, the wind was strengthening and the sea steep and confused. We put a
reef in the main sail and then a second reef an hour later. The water threw
itself over the bows and the fly-bridge as we fought our way north eastwards,
close hauled, with the wind blowing 40 plus knots. The log tells us that it
registered a high of 46knots. We sailed along at 7, 8 and 9 knots then at
1.9knots as we went up and down in the steep troughs. I kept looking at the log to see
how far we had still to travel to our anchorage and the estimated time of
arrival. While we were sailing at the higher speeds, we could expect to reach
our next waypoint within the hour but when our speed was much reduced, it looked
as if we were going to spend most of the night at sea. We tacked closer to the island and switched on
the engines, motor-sailing to our destination, where we arrived soaked, cold and
tired. What an awful passage! At times like this, I wonder why I want to reach
out of my comfort zone. We stayed 3 nights in the protected
On the morning of the 16th August,
we cautiously moved out of the bay. The wind was blowing a gentle force 4,
though the sea was still steep. However, after the onslaught of the previous
passage, we found this to be an encouraging start. We made our way to Katapola, a distance of just
7 miles, planning to tie up on the town quay. So much for remote islands, the
quay was choc-a-bloc with boats rafted 3 deep. It seemed that we had chosen to
visit here, the same weekend as two separate yacht rallies had also arranged to
be here. Good business for the island. We dropped an anchor in the bay, had a swim,
then went ashore for lunch, in the rib. |