Sunday morning, with the sun shining, we stuck our head
out of the bay, to make passage south east. The wind, channeled between the
islands, was still blowing from the south east but was due to go down today.
Once out of the bay, we struggled against the wind and the tide. Even with both
54hp engines running at 2100 revs, we made little progress.
Having cleared the end of the island, there was no
respite. The current against us remained strong and the wind was blowing head-on
at force 6. We turned around, raised the foresail, switched off the engines and
were running, at 7knots. Small wonder we had been unable to make way to
It is interesting, that when the wind is forecast to go
down, it is always later than anticipated and that when the wind is forecast to
increase, it arrives early.
We looked at Manastir bay, just east of Lovisce, where we
had spent the previous 2 nights. A Dominican monastery was founded here in the
15th century, though it was abandoned 300 years later. Mooring buoys,
in prime of place, would have made it difficult for us to anchor, so we returned
to the anchorage, which we had left one hour and twenty minutes earlier, having
covered a total of just less than five miles.
Two large tourist boats arrived. One dropped its anchor
right in the middle of the entrance to the bay, having first attempted to anchor
in a small bay, off the inlet, to the east of the bay. The other anchored to the
west of the bay. Perhaps this indicates that the holiday season has started.
There were not many people on either boat, though a few did swim.
Two sailing boats arrived and anchored in the bay. One
dropped its anchor just slightly to port of us and reversed, until it was almost
touching the tourist boat. It bobbed about precariously for half an hour before
raising its anchor and departingthe bay, motoring north in a much reduced sea.
The wind was still blowing from the south east but was a variable force 2 to
A Super Marabu arrived and anchored between us and the
shore. With the wind forecast to change direction overnight, the boat was in
danger of hitting the rocky shoreline when the wind changed. Fortunately, before
it became dark, the wind changed direction and the aft of the boat was
uncomfortably close to the rocks. The couple aboard raised the anchor and moved
further out into the bay, dropping their anchor on the western side of the
inlet. When I got up next morning, the boat had gone.
We were soon off again with the wind starting at force 3
to 4 but reducing as the day progressed. Miraculously, despite now blowing
ENE, the wind was still on the
That evening we dropped our anchor in 3 metres of clear,
blue water. The bottom was mostly sand though there was some weed growing on the
We left Zuljana by and made passage to Sobra, on the
Mljet, where we stopped for fuel.
About 45 minutes before we reached the fuel station, we noticed a couple of
dolphins cavorting in the distance. Eventually, they made a bit of an effort to
play around the hulls for a short while, before they departed. As we approached
the entrance to the bay, a high speed ferry came out, kicking up quite a wash,
passing less than 10 metres from our port side.
While we were refueling, some beautiful, yellow
butterflies, flew around the boat. I quickly closed the mosquito blind over the
door. It would never do for a butterfly to get trapped inside. It would be
almost impossible to get it out without damaging it.
Even when Mljet was 3 miles behind us, dozens of these
yellow butterflies passed our boat, en-route to the opposite island, some 2.5
miles further to port. They seemed to mainly travel alone but occasionally, two
fluttered past together. Most of them were pale yellow but a number were quite a
deep yellow. One stopped on the fly-bridge but was gone before I could get my
23 miles from our destination, I could see a long, low
cloud enshrouding the lower parts of the islands ahead. So low, it looked as if
we were heading into fog. I went below and brought up a windproof jacket but 5
miles later, the cloud had just evaporated.
We spent the night anchored in the bay at Cavat and went
ashore. Next morning we took the boat round to the adjacent bay and tied up,
stern to the town quay, left the boat, then paid for a ride in a boat to
Dubrovnik town. The trip to the town
took half and hour but the return journey took almost an hour, as we had several
stops on the way back.
We walked 2 kilometers around the walls of the old town,
in the heat of the day. There are so many steps. The views were worth
we had already moved the boat from the town quay, about 50metres, to the customs
quay and as Dick was walking to the police station, he met a police-woman, who
was also on her way there, to open the office.Papers duly stamped, he then went to the
customs office. We were on our way before 8.15.
We sailed, using the parasailor until when the following wind had dropped to
under 4 knots. In the first 12 hours, we had covered half the distance at an
average speed of 7knots. Next morning, the parasailor was flying again by 5.45
and we sailed all the way to Corfu, a passage of 189
nautical miles in 30 hours, averaging 6.3knots. The fastest speed achieved on
this passage was 12.4knots.
During the afternoon of the first day, despite the sea
state, Caroline spotted a turtle. Later, while Dick was doing the first
night-watch, dolphins came and played around the boat. At night, the
phosphorescence adds even more to their displays, as they swim through the water
and play around the hulls.
Next morning, while I was resting below, a huge school of
around 24 dolphins, came to the boat and played awhile. It is a long time since
we have been fortunate enough to see so many dolphins at one time.
We tied up stern to the quay at Kassiopi. With no wind to
keep us cool, with the temperature in the 30’s, as soon as the boat was secure,
we turned our back on the marina, literally, and jumped into the sea.
What a difference a few weeks make. When we were here on
the 5th May, despite the charter boats, which had also arrived at a
similar time to us, there were still not a fraction of the number of people
milling around this delightful village, as there are here now, mid
Have to say that the first evening in Kassiopi was not
boring. A 65 foot flybridge motor cruiser, was moored on the outside berth in
the marina. It, like the rest of us, had an anchor down and lines ashore. The
wind was blowing strongly and from all directions. The skipper was ashore. The
anchor slipped and the stern of the boat hit the rough concrete of the quay.
Dick and many other people, rushed to help push the boat off the quay. Dick took
one of our big, round fenders with him, to assist with protecting the stern of
the boat but despite all efforts, the gelcoat was damaged,.
Someone on an adjacent boat made a phone call and the
skipper returned, moving the boat forward, away from the quay, telling anyone
that would listen, that he had 70 metres of chain out and the anchor was Ok.
Subsequently, he re-anchored the boat, though neither he nor his helper seemed
to understand the fundamentals of setting an anchor. As the stern of the boat
moved away from the quayside, an unattached fender was blown into the water,
outside of the protection of the low quay, into the sea. The skipper threw a
boathook ashore and Dick retrieved the fender. Later, while we were eating a
delicious meal, in a restaurant across the other side of the bay, the anchor
slipped again. This time the skipper, obviously having had enough of this bay,
raised the anchor and left.
The sailing boat, which was moored between us and the
fly-bridge motor cruiser, was owned by a male photographer, with at least 4
women on board. One of the women was a model, or a wannabe. The others were the
mother of the model plus 2 or 3 young friends. The model posed while the
photographer took photographs for her portfolio.
Meanwhile, Caroline had hung her towel on the guardrail
and although it was secured with 6 clothes pegs, it disappeared, while the wind
was blowing strongly from all directions. We leant over the rails and walked
along the quay, peering into the water. Dick spotted what looked like a blue
towel and donning mask and flippers, dove into the water. It was a blue towel
but belonged to the couple on the boat, starboard side. He swam around our boat
and eventually found the bathing towel, minus 3 clothes pegs. While in the
water, bearing in mind the problems we had observed with the motor cruiser, he
also swam out to check that our anchor was secure.
We spent a very peaceful night on the boat and during the
afternoon, watched the antics of our fellow yachties.
While we were having lunch, an Italian chap walked past
the cockpit, with a bag of sea urchins which, having joined a group of friends,
he tipped from the bag onto the quayside. One of the group, went to their boat,
returning with a grown-up version of a pair of nut-crackers, which was used to
open the sea urchins. What an opportunity for a photo shoot. Taking my camera
with me, I approached the group of Italians and was offered a sea urchin. My
instinct was to decline but instead I ate the sea urchin. I wasn’t particularly
impressed but would try them again, should the opportunity arise.
A small monohull arrived and reversing, towards the quay,
threw a line to a young man who was waiting to assist. Unfortunately, the line
was not attached to the boat, which was by now traveling away from the quayside.
The second attempt was more successful. After having stopped here for a couple
of hours, possibly for lunch or provisioning, they started to raise their
anchor, only to find that it was fouled by the anchor chain from an adjacent
boat. Not having a clue how to remove the chain from their anchor, Dick stood on
our fore-deck and talked the skipper through the process. Job done, the boat
motored past us, on the way to exit the harbour with its bathing ladder still in
the water. After their attention was drawn to this oversight, the ladder was
swiftly brought on board.
Another monohull arrived, this time with a skipper and 2
guests. The skipper despite being advised that he was about to foul our anchor,
calmly proceeded to do so, having dropped his anchor at an angle of nearly 45º,
before berthing on our portside. After a couple of hours, the 2 guests sat in
the cockpit applying sun cream, the skipper was attempting to manoeuvre the boat
from its berth single-handedly, while we had to hold it off , to avoid damage to
We will spend a few days here, replenish necessary
provisions and when Caroline leaves us on the 15th, we will make
passage to Sicily.
Below: Fields cultivated on almost vertical hillside on