Biscay Crossing to Bayona - 42:07:36N 08:50.76W

Red Skies
David Alexander
Thu 4 Jun 2009 20:26
The Start
 
On Sunday 31st May, we left our berth at Mayflower and motored to the line for a 9.00 am start. The winds were very light and the fleet made the gentlest of starts followed by slow progress for the next 3 hours. With 550 miles ahead of us, patience became exhausted and the engine was fired up just after noon and we motored for the next hour until the wind picked up from the North East.
 
This pattern persisted and Biscay was crossed using a mixture of sailing with cruising chute up when there was enough wind or the engine when there wasn't. Bearing in mind previous concerns about the fearsome reputation of Biscay, these benign conditions were welcomed by all and, when we were sailing, it was exhilarating.
 
With 5 people on board, a somewhat complicated watch system was adopted which entailed 2 people being on watch for 3 hours at a time from 8 pm to 8 am, but with a rotation of crew after the first hour. This arrangement, together with only one nominated watch keeper for 3 hour stints during the 8 am to 8 pm period, enabled all to get some reasonable rest periods for sleep during the night hours. 
 
Ali's Poetry
 
During the passage Alison wrote the following ode, which was sent to Rally Control, using Theraya satellite phone for email, for inclusion on the Rally blog. This turned out to be the first of a number of such odes.
 
So Dave said to Ali and Ali said to Dave,
"I'm fed up with being a wages slave -
let's retire from our jobs and sail away.
If we don't do it now we'll regret it someday."

So Dave said to Ali - "we'll change the boat;
we need something bigger for long-term afloat."
So Red Skies was bought and fitted out,
chandleries emptied - Bank Account 'nought'.

So Ali said to Dave and Dave said to Ali,
"Let's go to the Med with that Portruguese Rally.
They go to Bayona across Biscay Bay.
We'll have some company - 'it's fun' they say".

So Dave said to Ali - "we'll need some crew;
some volunteers, do we know one or two?"
So Don said "I'll come with Charlie - that's two."
And Mike said - "it's something I've wanted to do."

So Ali said to Dave and Dave said to Ali,
"You'd better sign up and be part of the Rally."
So here we are now, we're half way to Spain;
it's calm and it's sunny - no hint of rain.
It's Tuesday morning and all's going well;
the waves are kind, no hint of a swell.
The crew are happy, well fed and hearty.
And we're all looking forward to
the Bayona Party.
 
Joined by Dolphins
 
As experienced by many others, we were joined by pods of dolphins at various stages on our passage across Biscay. it was a real delight to see them swoop down on the boat and to jostle with themselves to play in our bow wave. Their agility was breathtaking and photos just do not do the experience justice. When they approached during the night the phosphorescence of their wakes appeared as though we were under attack from torpedos.
 
                         
                        Dolphins coming to play with Red Skies
 
 
                       
                        Dolphins playing in the bow wave
 
Sea State
 
Whilst there was some rolling of the yacht for sections of the Biscay crossing, with wind and swell coming on the quarter, other sections were remarkably smooth, as shown by the attached photo as we rounded the notorious Cape Finisterre.
 
                       
                        Alison and Charlie on a flat sea off Cape Finisterre
 
Arrival in Bayona
 
We arrived in Bayona in the dark just after midnight on Wednesday/Thursday, 3 days and 15 hours after the start. Despite tiredness, the crew's elation at reaching our destination persuaded the skipper to pop the cork on a bottle of champagne to celebrate. However, sleep intervened before the next arrival (we were 2nd to arrive) came in more than 3 hours later.
 
Bayona is an attractive town with a fort that has been turned into a Parador. Unfortunately, the weather turned and we saw a lot of wet and wind while we were there. Mike had arranged to join his wife, Adrienne, in Santiago de Compostello for a week's holiday and so left our cruise at this point. The rest of us preceded him to Santiago on a day trip organised by Rally Portugal and while it rained all day it was a thoroughly interesting and enjoyable trip.
 
                           
                        Mike and Alison overlooking Bayona Marina from the walls of the Parador
 
 
                       
                        Bayona Town
 
 
                       
     Statue of the Virgin overlooking Bayona, with internal staircase to a viewing platform in the shape of a ship that she holds in her right hand
 
 
                       
Replica of the Pinta in Bayona Port, now used as a maritime museum
 
 
                       
The cathedral in Santiago de Compestello. While we were there, we witnessed the swinging of the immense incense burner from ropes to the roof of the nave, which takes 8 strong men to accomplish and only happens on a handful of occasions each year.
 
All this triggered another ode from Alison:-

We're here in Bayona
Biscay has been won.
It was all plain sailing
In fact - it was fun.

Nothing got broken
Except Don broke a nail.
No-one was poorly
Heaving over the rail.

We danced with the dolphins
But we didn't see whales.
We were ever so lucky
That we didn't do gales.

We arrived in Bayona
In the dark of the night
Where a friendly Mariniero
Met us with his light.

We were welcomed by Paul
Who tied up our warps.
Then we got stuck in
To popping the corks.

We've tramped round the ramparts
And walked to the rock
Where the stony-faced virgin
Lets you climb up her frock.

We've composted the Stella
Saw Saint James's bones.
We've failed to get wi-fi
Had trouble with phones.

We've met lovely people
Shared a laugh and a drink.
We've heard some tall stories
That made us all think.

The World Cruising Club
With Andrew and Paul
Have worked themselves ragged
For us in Rally Portugal.

We're getting ready for Tuesday
After Monday night's bash.
We won't be up late though
We've got the fleet to thrash.