Pussers cay, and on to Jost van Dyke

Moonshine
Tue 10 Apr 2007 00:44
We left for Pussers cay about mid morning on a beautiful sunny Caribbean day. There was a light breeze, but not enough to stay cool. We used only the genoa, and gentled along slowly.
We are making the destinations up as we go along on the basis that planning becomes pointless without sufficient information to choose. All the islands are beautiful, and those that are highly recommended are also very popular.

Pussers cay is on the chart, but not in the BVI charter sailing guide, and was largely ignored. Named after the rum, it is an island about the size of Woolworths just about a half mile from a larger island called Great Camanoe, and surrounded by a coral reef. Approaching from seaward it is difficult to see the reef, but it is marked on the chart, and avoidable. From the anchorage however, the reef is huge and only a foot or so deep. We anchored between the two islands.
In fact we started to anchor, and then saw a mooring buoy, with 'pay at cay' written on it, and used that.
Within 5 minutes the cay had come to us to collect!
We swam a little, and went to the reef, but too many people had walked on it for it to be interesting. Luckily most reefs are not this accessible.I think the highlight of the day was seeing turtles close to the boat.
We were invited back to another boat in the evening, two sailing families from Maine. During the conversation they mentioned Jost van Dyke as a good, and unspoilt destination, and so it is that some plans are made.

In the morning we cast off, avoided the reef, and sailed to Jost van Dyke.

There are two main ancorages in Jost van Dyke, Garner Bay - recommended, and Great Harbour - recommended. Then there is a small sandy beach called White Bay, with a narrow passage through the coral, and room for very few boats. We chose the latter.
The water was clear as crystal. In the passage it was 20 feet deep. To either side it was 3 feet, but motoring in we could see all this clearly through the water. We also saw turtles again. This coral reef was undamaged.

Just behind the beach was 'Ivan's', a beach bar and restaurant, which was surprisingly active, with maybe a dozen people! None of them looked to be tourists, and there were a lot of musical instruments around. There was also a faint smell of burning leaves, but it didn't seem to bother anyone, and all were very friendly.
A good looking guy with gold glasses and wide brimmed hat, looking every inch a famous blues singer, was playing some wicked blues on his guitar. A lady swam ashore from somewhere and asked for a lift back out to pick up her instruments. A man looking like a cowboy was practising runs on his guitar - he didn't need the practice. A fat bearded american was quietly practising country - he didn't need to either.

We had stumbled into 'Ivan's 7th Annual Easter Sunday Regatta'

The boats were out there somewhere, doing things that race boats do, and the party was setting up ashore. People were coming in from other islands to join. The barbeque was never ending.

The musicians started playing at about 2, and whilst the performers gradually changed - one would join ,one would rest - the music carried on until very late. We shared their barbeque, were made to feel very welcome, and eventually got to bed.

We left for Tortola the following day - we have to arrange flights home!

We will return to Ivan's, and White Bay, if only to see if it is the same without the 'Easter Sunday regatta'

Rod Sandra and the mouse.


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