Carriacou (and bureaucracy)
Calema
Thu 23 Jan 2003 17:35
involves dealing with the legacy of British colonialism where computers have
yet to interfere. Yesterday we cleared into Carriacou (part of Grenada) from
St Vincent and the Grenadines - a process which involved writing the same
information (in triplicate) for no less than 3 different uniformed officials
(customs, immigration, port authority). All this takes place while they are
speaking on the phone in patois (presumably being rude about us) but the
transaction is always ended with an unemotional 'enjoy your stay'. They must
have been trained by the British customs to achieve this exemplary faceless
style of communication. The last desk to visit (which makes 4) is to the pay
station where a clerk stamps all the forms again and lightens the wallet of
about £15 and puts a sponsorship form for the school baseball team under
your nose - they won't be travelling far on what we gave.
All this sounds derogatory (which it is) but is only directed to the
bureaucrats. Carriacou is a great island and seems more prosperous than some
of the Grenadines further north. There is little rubbish in the street and
the dogs have collars (and fur). I saw several people in ties yesterday
going about their business which certainly would not have suited the rastas
in Mayreau.
Yeserday evening we stumbled across a great beach bar run by Cuthbert
(local) and Jenny (swedish) - they would have great looking kids if you get
my meaning! After a customary rum at sunset, we noticed some enourmous
lobster on the bar and the barbecue was being lit. A surreptitious
investigation into price yielded 55$EC (about £12) for half a lobster (the
likes of which have not been seen in Europe since the last ice age) and
attendant veges. No further decisions to make and after a quick shower we
returned to share our feast with about 15 others all sitting around a table
on the beach. Most were americans - but the mere fact that there is not an
air conditioned room on the island suggests they had a sense of humour. This
turned out to be a good thing because we all got pretty pissed and set about
some customary piss taking (which was all in the best possible taste).
Proceedings closed at midnight which is the latest we have been to bed since
NYE.
This morning started slowly thanks to the mixture or rum and (not quite
Chablis) winey stuff. Now at anchor off sandy island which as an apt
description although it does have a tree. Pushing on another 3 miles later
on to Tyrell Bay where we shall hire bikes and 'do' the island which looks
refreshingly hilly. There is a tradtional boatyard on the windward side
which Teg can't wait to visit - the things I do for her!
Teg has infact just had her first trip up the mast to retrieve the burgee
which had formed a loving embrace with the VHF aerial. A donf girl!
Too hot to type more. Must swim.