44:35.4N 1:21.1W
It’s Wednesday 24th September (my
birthday!) and as I write, the Bay of Biscay
is uncharacteristically passive as it stretches uninterrupted as far as the
horizon in all directions. The wind is blowing about ten knots on the beam but
I’ve still got two reefs in the mainsail to avoid arriving at La Vigne
before high water tomorrow. Any earlier and, according to the Reeds Almanac, I
won’t be able to fight the tide as it rushes over the shallow bar that
lurks beneath the entrance to Carcachon – which, by the way, seems to be
just a short distance from Bordeaux.
And the irony of that is not lost on me as the dice seems to have traded a
relatively easy sail with the torment of not
sampling the local plonk and not celebrating
the first successfully completed leg in typical style. Putting the brakes on
has also given me the opportunity to relax, enjoy the warm weather down here
and to start writing my first Newsletter since my ‘Dice’ voyage
started on Sunday afternoon.
Talking of which, I’m sorry if you’ve been
checking the website for position updates. They’re uploaded manually by
me whenever I have an internet connection and as I’ve yet to set up my
satellite phone properly, I’ve not yet been within 3G or cellular range
since leaving Portsmouth
on Sunday. Anyway, the position reports should now be live and should show a
clear track of my progress so far. I’ll keep this updated as often as I
can but please remember that it’s not an automatic system and relies on
me being slightly more organised than I am!
Looking back, Sunday was an extraordinary day not least of
which because two years of preparation (mostly condensed into the last
remaining few hours!) had culminated at this pivotal moment in my life. Cousins
and Aunts I hadn’t seen for years, slightly bewildered to discover that
such an errant and dysfunctional gene had survived ‘natural
selection’ to exist in the family, arrived to enjoy the occasion. Besides
my immediate family, close friends and media, there were a few surprise
appearances from various well-wishers and boat-owners berthed at Wicormarine
who were clearly lured by the smell of barbequed bacon and sausages wafting
over the pontoons!
On Saturday night, over an Italian dinner chosen (badly) by
the dice, we (me, my mum, brother, his girlfriend Claire and my friend Hugo)
created the first selections of six possible landfalls. Each one, itself
drilled down from six localised options, was selected from areas such as the
Channel Islands, Brittany, North Biscay, South
Biscay, English south coast and as option number six, Cape Verde. We even thought it
would be quite funny to give the dice an option of sending me to Bembridge on
the Isle of Wight – just fifteen minutes sail from Portsmouth Harbour
but I was psychologically and practically prepared for a long voyage and was
relieved to see Bembridge, lovely though it is, outmanoeuvred by the Isle of
Scilly! So, having endured an uninspiring tomato and mozzarella salad followed
by a tasteless risotto, unceremoniously, the six dice options were
revealed…
1
The Isles of Scilly (English South Coast)
2
Guernsey (Channel
Islands)
3
La Vigne (South
Biscay)
4
Canaries
5
Ria de Camarinas (Near Finisterre)
6
The Azores
Now, I’d love to say that in the media spotlight
cashing in my fifteen minutes of fame and in front of so many people, I was a
natural. A natural what I’m
not sure but despite my very best intentions, I left so much unsaid. I wanted
to make a brief but thoughtful speech in which I would express regret at not
being able to share the moment with my brother Colin,
with my nieces Emily, Hannah and Maddy, with so many people who I know wanted
to come but were unable. It was a small consolation that I had spoken to Colin on the phone earlier that morning but as
someone whose infectious enthusiasm for sailing has been my inspiration, I
regret that I didn’t even raise a toast (or a bacon buttie) to
‘absent friends’. My only excuse; I had taken on far too much in
the days leading up to Sunday. In the sleep-starved madness of chasing deliveries,
provisioning and wrapping up one last event for my old company Roadshow, I’m afraid that on Sunday,
distracted not just by the frenzy of phone calls, text messages, and radio
interviews but by the beckoning horizon, I was focussed more on rolling the
dice and casting off than on trying to make some order of the chaotic thoughts,
emotions and fears cluttering my head. Well, at about 1130hrs, I rolled the
dice (yes, I know… ‘die’) to reveal a three… la Vigne
in South Biscay. The night before, La Vigne
could have been Bilbao, La
Rochelle, St Gilles, Trinite Sur Mer or Cap Breton but the dice had
now, for a second time, chosen to send me to this tiny anchorage on the
Atlantic coast of France.
And that was it. No profound statement as “The Die is Cast” or
“Where to Next?” or anything for the record to mark such an
occasion. Just a few hugs… well, a lot of hugs and a short trip in the
dinghy to Canasta where my
single-handed circumnavigation of the world had just begun.
Flanked by Scott from Wicormarine and a few family members
in the launch on one side, Hugo taking photos from a RIB on the other and my
pontoon neighbours aboard Iona
bringing up the rear, I was waved off in typical style. I was pretty pleased
with the turnout for the shore party but was staggered by the number of people
on route to Portsmouth
who, on their own boats, blew horns, waved flags and even joined the convoy. I
had dressed Canasta with
‘Colours Over All’; each of the signal flags in a specific order
flown like bunting from the bow, over the mast to the stern. Hugo, the official
W2N photographer for the day, was busy taking pictures all that way up to the
harbour entrance where hi RIB started to get swamped by the amount of traffic
up there. I’m sure he’s got some great shots which will soon be on
the W2N website for you (and me) to see. If you want high resolution copies,
email me and I’ll forward your request to Hugo who will make them
available to you.
I’ve got just under 60 nautical miles to go before
reaching La Vigne which means I‘ve already covered 450 since leaving Portsmouth. Most of it has
been pretty unremarkable although up until today, I have been achieving fairly
consistent speeds of seven or eight knots with an occasional nine as I surf
down a wave. The most significant thing to note is the prevalence of shipping
traffic in the English Channel making it impossible to risk sleeping before
reaching Isle D’Ouessant
and the Bay of Biscay. On reaching this
turning point (and choosing the coward’s route around the island rather
than risk negotiating the Chenal Du Four and the Raz De Sein) I made the
decision to sail the less populated rhum line across the bay to La Vigne rather
than hug the coast. I was so tired by then that I was fighting to stay awake
but by staying clear of coastal waters, I’d certainly be able to nap for
an hour at a time. Even at the wheel, standing up to ride the steep waves, I
was succumbing to fatigue. I was hallucinating and struggling to differentiate
between reality and dream. Vague forms around the boat became people. Unmistakably,
coiled ropes on the cockpit bench seat became the legs of a scruffily dressed
gypsy girl. Sitting on the top step of the companionway, I looked to starboard
where an air vent (called a Dorade)
was clearly the disembodied head and face of someone dredged from my
subconscious. Noises around the boat adopted a human form as the autopilot
hummed a cheerful yet tuneless song. And none of this was at all scary. In my
semi-asleep state, I sort of understood what was going on and just accepted my
uninvited crew with indifference.
You think I’ve gone mad now right!? No, well, this was
just briefly on Monday night as I became consumed by tiredness but let’s
be honest, it’s nowhere near as entertaining as digestive biscuits riding
bicycles into parked cars to make the base for an enormous cheesecake (as was
the experience of someone who I know will be reading this. That he was neither
drunk nor tired makes me think it best that I don’t name names!) It was
obvious then that if I didn’t get to sleep soon, I’d be in danger
of misreading the charts or misinterpreting a channel marker and that could
have been disastrous.
Finally then on Tuesday, alone again, not only did I get to
sleep, I was at last able to set a course that after two days of downwind
sailing, brought the wind over the port beam for a fast reach across the bay.
Great sailing generally although after several hours with waves crashing over
the bow, I discovered that I’d not closed the forward hatch properly! So,
first job when I get into La Vigne is to dry out all the bedding and office
paperwork that’s stored in there. The next job will be to repair the
navigation lights at the bow which became temperamental fairly early on. Other
than that, Canasta has been
outstanding. She sails beautifully and as I write, with ‘Smith’ at
the helm (the autopilot is made by Smiths Industries), aided slightly by a
fearless small bird that stopped for a rest on the wheel and hasn’t left,
she is holding a course with just the tiniest of wheel adjustments. I’ve
been thankful too for the single-line reefing system that twice already has
enabled me to shorten sail without even leaving the comfort of the marquee
sized sprayhood.
So that’s it. No dramas, no dolphins, a bit of
phosphorescence but I was too tired to appreciate it (and just watching it has
a pretty hypnotic and soporific effect!) Oh, there was of course an
outrageously sordid ‘dice’ orgy of dancing and singing to energetic
gypsy folk shanties but that all ended abruptly when I woke up on Tuesday and
with it, more lucky heather than I could have dreamt of!
Uh oh, it’s happening already!
I should be in La Vigne by tomorrow morning and will take
some time there to make some repairs to the boat (only minor) and sort out the
Satellite Phone. I’ll probably stay a few days and will take advice
locally for the next six dice options. I’ll write again when the dice has
rolled and let you know “Where to
next?”
Happy Birthday Col’ although you won’t get this
before Thursday.
Rob Clark
W2N Global Ltd.
+44 (0)7967 661157
www.w2n.co.uk