Still in Nuke (7th May)

Mustang Sally Cruising
Mark Lawrence & Dianne Jackson
Sat 6 May 2017 21:01
Since our last report we have been busy in Nuku’alofa (aka Nuke).
We have signed up to a Digicel SIM card so well sorted with both phone and
data coverage, have arranged for our 4 months visa with immigration and have a
good handle on provisioning.
All advice we have received suggests we buy any provisions here as it gets
tougher as we move north through the island chain. So far we have found
Molisi which is definitely the best supermarket in town, the cheese shop which
has a good supply of all things dairy and an excellent Italian shop owned by a
genuine Italian that washed up here 30 years ago from his home town of Torino so
all sorted for salami, parmesan and porcini mushrooms however, we are finding it
pretty tough to source decent meat so chicken is definitely going to big on our
list of protein sources during our stay although we have found that the Bilo
Bilo BBQ stand does do lamb as well as roast chickens – yummy!!
We have moved anchorage 1.5 NM East from Faua harbour and are now parked in
front of Big Mamma’s Yacht Club on Pangaimotu Island which is a very comfortable
spot to anchor and has nice cold beers so Mark is very happy to hang here for a
bit. They also have a daily ferry service so easy to pop back into Nuke
for the morning.
It looks like we might be spending another week around these parts as we
have plenty of wind for a bit which seem to be a by-product of Cyclone Donna
even though it is over 1000NM away over in Vanuatu.
![]() Currently we are experiencing winds of 20-30kts at the anchorage as the
island is very flat so does not provide much shelter from the wind but the seas
are calm for the most part. On a bright side the wind generator is vying
for crew member of the month by contributing the vast majority of our electron
requirements for the last couple of days.
Seems that we have a few electrical gremlins after our passage from
Fiji. The AIS unit has cooked itself and is no longer functioning which is
no biggie and will look to replace once back in Vuda but is not good for those
AIS stalkers. The next issue was the AutoHelm which seemed to be a little
flaky for the last part of the passage here and after some communications with
Raymarine and some handy work with the multi-metre it would appear that the
Rudder Position Sensor Unit has gone terminal so now looking to Amanda, who will
be our first guest to arrive in Vava’u, to bring a new one with her. As
you may have gathered there is pretty much no sign of any marine industry in
Tonga so you very much have to do it yourself. As we still have some
significant passages ahead of our us we will be very much relying on AutoHelm
for the trip up to Samoa and back to Fiji and while it is still working we
really want it to be in tip top shape for these trips.
As we have plenty of time on our hands we got Big Mamma to arrange for
Leita to take us on an all day tour of Tongatapu.
Tongatapu is quite different to the many islands of the SW Pacific that we
have already visited as it is very small (~32kms x 16 kms) yet is home to around
70,000 people or 70% of the Tongan population which makes it more like a large
suburb rather than many small villages. There are plenty of houses, small
gardens for agriculture along with many churches and cemetery's.
We saw many things including the landing sites for Able Tasman and Cook who
both visited these Islands, the famous fishing pigs although the ones we saw
looked more like they were rooting around in the mud in the mangroves not the
ocean. We also saw the Trilithon which is the South West Pacific version
of Stonehenge i.e. a sun calendar which is considered to be very old, although
there is no date specified these islands have been inhabited for over 3,000
years and the Royal family can date their lineage back over 1,000 years.
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The Royal Palace
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Blowholes
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Fishing Pigs
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Stonehenge – Tongan Style
We are hoping that this weather may start to ease up later this week which
will allow us to stop in at the fishing wharf to pick up some water, get our
local movement report which is required when travelling between Island groups
and then set off to the rarely visited Ha’apai group approximately 60NM’s
North.
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