Palmerston, Cook Islands
Boundless 1
Richard Clennett
Sun 10 Jul 2011 02:31
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18.23 S 165.26 W
Our time at Palmerston Island was unique, starting
with bringing in three huge Mahi Mahi as we approached the island! We had heard
from many people about the warm welcome received here and that is really what we
found. From the moment Bob Masters came out in his dinghy to guide us to a
mooring (the one laid by "Ghost" last year) and we were able to greet him with a
Mahi Mahi, to the time we were delivered back to Boundless the following
afternoon, we were treated as family. The facts from
Bob are that the three families have always lived on the one island -
Palmerston, but in his wisdom, old William Masters divided it into thirds (along
with the other motus of the atoll). Each family has a very well delineated area
- divided by sand roads that are well marked and even lit at night.
After we had been visited by customs/immigration
and health (islanders acting in these govt. roles) and all bilges,
lockers and cupboards had been sprayed by the nurse, we were cleared to go
ashore, which we did with the whole entourage in Bob's dinghy. The
afternoon was spent with a guided tour of parts of the island with
Bob, meeting his cousins and sharing cold drinks, tea and TimTams
with his wife and four children. We learnt a lot about coconuts and their many
uses and life on the island in general, and joined in feeding the pigs and
chooks and a baby frigate bird being fattened up for dinner!. Bob is currently
Mayor of Palmerston, each family takes on the role for a three year term
consecutively. Palmerston is independently managed by the Masters family and
comes under the jurisdiction of the Cook Islands (NZ).
Bob returned us to the boat late in the afternoon
and arranged to pick us up at 10am the following day as we were to be guests at
the opening of the new school which has just been completed. There are currently
73 residents on the island and 30 children, with other family members that come
and go. We took muffins and popcorn as our contribution to the feast
to be held after the opening, and books, pens, fishing gear, beer and
pantry items for Bob's family and a few things out of our First Aid kit for the
Health Clinic.
We were welcomed by everyone we met with hugs and
kisses, particularly by the five delightful matriarchs in their 70's and
80's. The stories they told and the linkages to other islands and other
nations fascinating. The Boundless crew were welcomed in the official
speeches and when the dancing began we were the first to be invited as partners
by the school children. We couldn't stop laughing, it was such fun, my partner
was a charming 8 year old boy who had done the traditional welcome dance - all
the students danced with their parents or relatives. The drums were wonderful,
the Cook Islands having a unique drum beat, different to the other island
groups.All present sang a very emotional island anthem, with the matriarchs
leading in very strong voice. After the feast, which everyone had contributed
to, a ball game was played with young and old joining in and again a lot of fun
and laughter.
We spent some time talking to the Headmistress and
the Nurse among many others. It seems relations between the family groups are
not always harmonious and we certainly picked that up in some of the
conversations - not really surprising.
After a final farewell to everyone and then to
Bob's family, we were delivered back to the boat feeling priveleged to have been
a part of island life for 24 hours, so different to being a visitor on the many
other islands we have been to.
An hour later, we were on our way to Tonga
with light E/SE, 8-14 knots, with full main and gennaker and making 6 knots most
of the night. This light weather is forcast to continue so we will probably not
stop at Nuie, but continue on to Niafu so we can hopefully be there to meet
Barb when she arrives on the 15th.
We will be crossing the International Dateline
between here and Tonga, so we will really feel we are getting closer to
home!
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