Day 58 Thu 12 jul Rum to Loch Harport

Vega
Irving & Cate Benjamin
Thu 12 Jul 2012 11:02

This was another slow start for most, though not for Ian, who with  great stealth took the dinghy quietly ashore early to shower.  By the time the rest of us were up and about we had long missed the 0800 proposed start, though in truth the tides (now on Neaps) were pretty insignificant for our passage from Rum to Skye.  Nonetheless this proved to be mostly a motorsailing day, with the ongoing trend of F3-5 northeasters heading us.  The weather was very pleasant aand we had a relaxing passage round the east and north corner of Rum, with great views of Canna to the north west and the Uists on the far western horizon.  The massive Cuillin of Skye loomed ever closer to the east, and of course we sang the obligatory Skye Boat Song until it became a serious brain worm.  We had predicted that as we turned round the headland into the entrance of Loch Harport we would be able to sail, and this proved satisfyingly true, with our last hour spent tacking round the dog-leg entrance to this spectacularly beautiful loch towards the Cuillins.  Carbost, home to the Talisker Distillery, the Old Inn, amd not much else, came into sight, along with 20+ anchored or moored boats almosst filling the bay.  The next hour was spent trying to anchor, with several abortive attempts on deep kelp resulting in a dragging anchor laden with the dreaded weed.  We eventually managed to anchor (securely we hoped) in water as deep as Vega's 30metres of anchor chain would allow, and much anxious observation suggested we were steady and not dragging onto the lee shore.  Ian, by now clearly by default the Ship's Engineer, set to servicing the outboard engine, in which he had observed several defects the previous day.  I, who had only ever cleaned the spark plug heretofore, assisted Ian as he dismantled the entire engine into more parts than I knew existed, and reassembled the beast just in time for us to motor ashore for the evening's entertainment. After a beer in the Old Inn and a shower for Benj, we were bussed via a very long road to the Minginish Village Hall, where we were greeted with a dram or two of 10 year old Talisker, followed by a meal of smoked mackerel pate, haggis with neeps and tatties, and sticky toffee pudding.  The meal was all prepared by the catering staff of the Old Inn, but by a strange lapse of communication between the Old Inn and the Talisker distillery, there was no whisky available in the cash bar to anoint our haggis (which was, by the way, spicy and excellent).  There was a talk and slide show by a local wildlife photographer, Jon Pear, with stunning illustrations of the local birds and mammals.  An interesting entertainment on the ride round the island was a varied selection of scarecrows, for a local competition.  We all made our way home, eschewing a further visit to the Old Inn, and took the rather wet dinghy ride back to Vega.  She seemed thankfully not to have moved in the meantime, and we shared a  nightcap before retiring, the boat swinging wildly in the swirling wind up the Loch.  We had viewed yet another gorgeous sunset, and as  I write, at midnight, the western sky is still light.

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