Day 13 May 28 Cate's Birthday - rest day in Milford Haven
We decided to spend the day exploring Milford Haven, shopping, sight-seeing, and maybe finding a nice Birthday Dinner for Cate, especially since the next leg was to be quite a long one, across St George's Channel to Ireland. Little did we suspect how little MH would have to offer! A steep ascent up steps from the Marina led to the orderly grid of streets parallel to the harbour, as laid out by Sir Charles Greville in Nelson's time, consisting almost entirely of closed and boarded shops, charity outlets, betting shops and closed hairdressers, with a couple of coffee shops and some uninviting pubs (including the Nelson Inn, renamed for the Admiral after his one visit to the town, having admired the actual harbour). It did not take long to 'do' the town, and we stopped for coffee and cake overlooking the harbour, and chatted with the waitress about the sad and derelict state of the town, which makes Deal look like Manhattan. I cannot fathom why a massive and presumably profitable oil terminal such as MH does not make any apparent investment in the town. One contributory cause, we later learned from a very informative visit to the town Museum, is that the oil terminal and refineries require a relatively small labour force, compared with a cargo or fishing port, and so there is little employment for the town coming from the harbour. When we descended to the marina again it was a different story: on all sides there are bijou shops selling designer labels, coffee shops and restaurants, which is where all the visitors to the marina spend their dosh. We also learned that the marina shopping area has become a magnet for visitors from as far away as Cardiff, while the town above withers on the vine. A very sad place indeed.