Day 29 Wed 13 June The Dark Hedges, Ballycastle

Vega
Irving & Cate Benjamin
Wed 13 Jun 2012 22:15

(In which our sailors venture inland to the Dark Hedges and get blisters on their feet, but no music)
The day dawned more promising, and we caught the 0945 Coleraine bus and were dropped off at the 'Dry Arch' as instructed, and set off along a country road to find this largely unknown natural phenomenon.  Beech trees 300 years old have grown together high above the minor road in an unearthly tangle of branches and canopy.  There is no sign leading to them, so you just have to know they are there, though there are plenty postcards in the tourist centre.  Our walk there was almost an hour, plus the time spent taking photos.  We then navigated our way down further country roads to Mosside, which according to the OS map has a post office and a pub.  Surprise, surprise!  This is north Antrim, and the pub hasn't opened for a long time, likewise the post office, and in fact all that's there is a garage, a tiny shop and the Orange Lodge Hall (with flags and bunting out for the Jubilee just past, including several from the Ulster Defence Force (now of course defunct) and various Red Hand banners.  We were extreme;ly lucky to be there just ion time to catch a bus at 1215, or we would have been sitting by the roadside for the next 2 hours!
Glad to escape Mosside, we arrived back in Ballycastle for a welcome Guinness (probably my last in Ireland) and a good bowl of seafood chowder on O'Connor's Bar, where there was to be traditional Irish music that evening, one of our reasons for staying the extra day here. However, we have long grown accustomed in our travels to Benjamin's Law Of Pub Music, which is that it is always yesterday or tomorrow, but never today, and this was no exception! After a bit of provision and posh frock shopping we walked bak to the harbour, sore-footed, and had afternoon tea and a nap before supper.  The plan for tomorrow was a short hop to Rathlin Island for the puffins etc, then a longer sail north to Islay, but even as I write this the forecast has changed, and it looks like we have a narrow weather window to get to Port Ellen on Islay before we have more F7-8 winds, so it's off to bed now for an early start.

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