Day 33 Sun 17 June Port Ellen to Scalsaig, Isle of Colonsay.

Vega
Irving & Cate Benjamin
Sun 17 Jun 2012 10:41

(In which we move to an even smaller island, taste even better oysters, and prepare to set off on an Adventure)
As promised the wind had abated and the sun shone, albeit weakly.  We had planned a passage through the Sound of Islay, the narrow strait between Islay and Jura, in which the Spring tide can run upo to 5knots, so timing was important.  We slipped our berth at 1000, and by 1230 had passed the distilleries of Lagavulin  and Bruichladdhie, rounded Macarthur Herad and were entering the Sound.  The wind was still blowing 20k, absolutely on the nose, so motoring again, and the tide did indeed push us through at over 10k. We enjoyed spectacular views of the Paps of Jura, sunlit with a cap of cloud, and were passed by the CalMac ferry heading south.  At 1400 we exited the Sound and headed out across open water towards Colonsay, where the latest info says there is the possibility of berthing.  As we rounded the breakwater of the Ro-Ro ferry berth it became clear that there is in fact berthing alongside the pier for one yacht, and it was occupied by a chartered Bavaria 47.  The helpful crew of three couples helped us to tie up alongside, with long lines ashore to cope with the 2m rise and fall of tide, and we climbed the long metal ladder to the pier and walked past the (closed) ferry office to the (open until 8pm) Pantry tea room for quiche and my first Scotch Pie for several years.  Further exploration took us to the Colonsay Brewery, which was open, and we had a conducted tour, which took 5 minutes, of the small shed housing the equipment of the micro-brewery.  The brewery is run by 10% of the working population of the island, two men.  The barley and Kentish hops have to be imported, and the beer is now sent to Alloa on the mainland for bottling due to increased demand, apart from some kegs which provide draught beer to the only hotel on the island. We bought a few bottles and later sampled the draught - they make 3 varieties, an IPA, a dark ale, and a lager, all of which were excellent.
A notice in the Pantry window spoke of a knitter on the island who runs classes from beginners to advanced, and Cate left messages to make contact.  Yasmin duly arrived to meet the 1800 arrival of the CalMac ferry from Oban, and called down to us aboard Vega.  We were keen to do the walk to Oransay next day (read on) and Yasmin offered to pick us up at 1400 at the Strand car park, bring me back to the boat, and take Cate to her home for an afternoon communing over  knitting matters.  The walk (it's coming, read on) is tide-dependent, so the only problem would be our neighbours in the Bavaria between us and the wall, who were leaving mid-morning the next day.  Generously they offered that if we were not there they would do the complicated manouevre of slipping out, leaving crew ashore to man our lines, and tie us up again securely in our absence, an offer we accepted gratefully.  That evening we walked up to the hotel and shared a dozen oysters yet again, this time even better than the Loch Gruinart ones, award winnners for best in Scotland in 2009  and 2010, 'grown' and harvested by a Mr Abrahams of the island. Back to Vega for rhubarb pie and cream, and so to bed.

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