56:10.98N 5:31.73W

Third time lucky: Now at home (by train to Anglesey for the last bit from Penrith, having left Ardfern with Pam on Tuesday 9th September) after a fabulous month on Umiak. The saying ‘third time lucky’ is really appropriate for me: In 2022, I attempted to get to Greenland in Umiak with Mike, we were prevented by solid sea ice a few miles off the coast. The incredible coastal mountains were clearly visible and I had to return. In 2024 I did go back with Jagged Globe (flying in and out of Kulusuk, so no sea ice problems this time!) This trip was unfortunately a wash out with 10 of the 12 days in Greenland being low cloud and rain, so almost nothing was climbed and very little was even visible. Thinking that I’d seen all I was going to of East Greenland I was stunned by Mike’s incredible offer to join him on this year’s trip.

From boarding Umiak in Kulusuk to leaving  Ardfern 35 days later the team Mike had put together for the second half of his 2025 trip worked together faultlessly. There was a huge collection of skills and experience between the rest of the crew, none of whom, except Mike, I had never met before. There was great teamwork for the whole trip, everyone being keen to contribute where they could, and happy to share all the necessary tasks of boat cleaning, water collection, boat watch, rifle carrying, etc. The meticulous planning and preparation of Mike was evident every day in some way or another, from boat preparation to the amazing variety of food in the extensive storage areas of the boat.

We had mainly great weather with clear blue skies and little wind (essential when weaving through floating icebergs as big as large buildings). We did some great climbs on snow, ice and rock (some of which was securely fastened to the ground, and a lot that wasn’t, with the vegetation between the rocks often being more secure than the rock itself!). We explored many beautiful fjords, some with no ice, some with lots of ice and a few with far too much ice. We found anchorage’s that were perfect (and a couple that got very shallow very suddenly!) The most detailed maps/charts available sometimes had the boat half a mile inland, and glaciers had retreated miles or dropped many metres. We often didn’t see another person or boat for days, this was our personal unspoilt wilderness. The fjords and mountains of East Greenland are like nowhere else on earth and apart from the retreating glaciers are as they were when the first European explorers visited (with no charts, no sat. Phones, no Starlink, no motors on their boats. All obviously completely bonkers!) We were so lucky to be able to experience the place in the way we did. Even the Scottish weather was on our side, allowing us to sail in sunshine with accompanying dolphins for much of our passage from Lewis to Ardfern. Thank you to Mike and the whole team for an unforgettable experience. John