First climb

Umiak
Mike Jaques
Sat 9 Aug 2025 18:06

65:57.21N 36:11.97W

We left our first anchorage (and third drone in three trips with Umiak, RIP) on Wednesday morning and spent the day making our way north to an area Mike had scoped out with the previous group. On entering the anchorage, we saw an impressive looking mountain in the background which looked like a viable option for the next day. So once we had dropped the anchor, we took the rifles ashore to get everyone acquainted with them and then Gringo, Tracey, Karl and John went to stretch the legs to get a better look at the next project. A couple of hours later they returned and reported it was worth a shot and so we all went to bed looking forward to the next adventure.

The next morning started with eggs on toast (which in hindsight I probably should have had a bit more to fuel for what was to follow.) Mike, Tracey, Karl, John and myself set off at about 8:30am and Gringo kindly volunteered to do boat duty for the day. The route started with a hike up through some grassy/bouldery terrain to a col at about 300m. We then followed a bit of ridge which brought us to a glacial lake and quite an impressive waterfall cascading down to the next fjord along from our anchorage. The lake was at the base of the Glacier we had to cross to get to the days objective so off we set on what began as a dry glacier and gradually got more crevassed until we were all roped up and zigzagging our way along, occasionally jumping over a deep slot in the ground. As we made steady progress along it started to become clear that our project for the day was looking a bit too much for our first day so we decided to go for a peak a bit further along which looked like it had a relatively steady snow plod all the way to the top. Karl and Tracey did a great job of route finding our way around the crevasses and up the side of the mountain. We reached the top at around 2pm at an elevation of 880m. What was strange was how still the air was at the top, there wasn’t even the slight hint of any breeze so we enjoyed having a nice break at this point with some absolutely breathtaking views. After a good 15mins we set off back to the boat basically following our footsteps back to the boat. After a 15km round trip it felt like a big day out so it was nice to have a shower after Gringo had spent the morning filling the boat with water from a nearby stream. I think we all slept very well that night.

Olly

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