12:27.50N 61:29.25W Grenada to Carriacou
Gaudeo
John and Prue Quayle / John Quayle
Tue 15 Jan 2008 03:03
In lazy Caribbean style we left the sanctuary of our
Mount Hartman Bay, Grenadan anchorage late for Carriacou which is 30 miles by sea to the NE, and soon
realised that with a stiff E/NE breeze, arrival would be after dark,
something best avoided in reef strewn, unlit anchorages. Instead, we
stopped off for the night in a sheltered bay on the W coast and spent the afternoon watching nearby pelicans; later, energetically scraping the worst of the barnacles from the hull. It is amazing how much these have built up in the short time we have been here.
We left early next morning again in unsettled weather - squally showers and stiff E wind - which would by Irish Sea standards be considered to be a nice day! In order to avoid the worst of the 2 - 3 knts W set and an underwater active volcano, we tacked into Sauteurs Bay on the north end of the island, famous for the suicidal leap into the sea from a high cliff by the last of the Caribs in 1651 who refused to submit to the colonising French. Though we passed some delightful small islands and rock outcrops en route to Carriacou 14 miles to the NE, the sail was a close fetch with one reef in the main across a rather disturbed sea and would not have been the best introduction to sailing for two Shropshire friends who had been expected but had to cancel through illness - weren`t they lucky?!
Because of its shelter and beauty, Tyrrel Bay anchorage on Carriacou is fairly crowded with yachts on passage of all nationality, but we were still able to find space within 200 yds of the shore to anchor. Ashore however, was all but deserted as Sunday is very properly observed as a day of rest in this part of the Caribbean - even more restful than the usual Caribbean relaxed pace of life.
14 th January:
This morning was set aside for registering with immigration and customs, and for "clearing". The last episode of such bureaucratic drama took place in St Georges, Grenada and occupied 3 hours, not the best therapy for retired psychopathic general surgeons. This time it took place in Hillsborough, the administrative centre of Carriacou which is smaller than Bicton. There was already a queue, fortunately of entertaining yachties all with interesting tales to tell, so the one and a half hour toil of form filling and stamp acquisition passed gently. The clearance fee is 1EC $ ( 20p sterling! ) for which a stamped and signed receipt is provided to initiate the next stage of clearance.
Our journeys between Tyrrel Bay and Hillsborough were taken by bus, an overcrowded van which travels at breakneck speed with detours all over the island, the most terrifying - only the deranged would consider it exhilarating - sightseeing in the world, without doubt providing the most frightening moments since the beginning of the transatlantic journey.
Tomorrow, we move from the Grenadan Grenadines to the St Vincent Grenadines; to Union Island first for a little more form filling - practice in the NHS has been useful after all - and onto Tobago Cays.