41:11.08N 08:42.24W Passage to Leixoes (Nr Oporto) and onto Figueira da Foz - Photos
Gaudeo
John and Prue Quayle / John Quayle
Sun 26 Aug 2007 04:01
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23-24th August: Down wind again first to Leixoes 35
miles from Viana do Castelo and the nearest accessible harbour for a visit
to OPorto. A mid afternoon sea-breeze brought us 25-30 knts requiring
2 reefs which has been a regular feature down this coast.
Although we were told that Leixoes is grim, it has
a pleasant beach and a vast number of restaurants, mostly empty and
over staffed reflecting the poorer economic climate of Portugal
compared to her Iberian neighbour.In all areas people are doing
jobs especially in the public sector which have long been abolished elsewhere
and bureaucracy abounds. Indeed, form filling is developing into an
art on Gaudeo with checks on passports, boat registration, customs
declaration etc often both with the Brigada Fiscal / Policia
Maritima and the marina office; wonderfully anachronistic Captain
Mainwaring sort of stuff!
A buzzing family run restaurant in which
all of three generations seemed to be at work gave us a entertaining evening
beginning with grandpapa who selected our menu and served so many
courses that we lost count. Throughout, a 20 stone smiling mama toiled
prodigiously in the kitchen, further evidence that good
fare is usually provided by well nourished cooks.We
witnessed once more the art of oxygenating alcoholic beverage which we
had first experienced in Asturian ciderias; this time it was with vinho verde
and what a difference it makes! Skilled wine waiters are able to fill
a small glass from a height of 4 feet without wasting a drop.
The over 60s outing to OPorto from nearby town of
Matinshos by means of the comfortable and efficient metro, began with a
little intellectual challenge over the purchase
of tickets such that we missed two trains. Though fascinating,
the historic centre is busy and the streets steep, so that in the
oppressive heat these two jubilados found themselves seeking out cool and
calm refuges such as the cloisters of the Cathedral, the chapel of St
Francis as well as Mr Sandeman`s splendid wine cellar - one has to travel
spiritually in this climate.In spite of being declared an UNESCO World
heritage site in 1996, many of the attractive and colourful houses which
seem to cling to the hillside remain in a rather dilapidated state of
repair.
On returning to the marina we found
"Bluefin", a gorgeous looking 18metre yacht (a stretched and sleeker
version of a 50 ft Laurent Giles Grenadier ) owned by Mike Stanfield,
father of daughter Ruth`s partner, Charlie. Mike was on
board with friends and Milades his charming Cuban partner. Pre dinner
drinks were thus taken in more style than usual for Gaudeo`s crew. We hope to
meet up again further down the coast.
24th August: Departure just after dawn for the next
port Figueira da Foz, 67 miles south with a reassuring forecast. Within half an
hour the wind was over 30knts and gusting 39 remaining thus for the next 2
hours. The utterances from Prue who is noted for her gentle and
reserved manner could probably be heard ashore, with
vocabulary more in keeping with that heard in the lower deck, such
is her affection for the well meaning folk responsible for weather
forecasts. It would have Fitzroy, the founder of this maritime
service, turning in his grave. At least it was an offshore breeze. Later it
settled to around 18-22knts giving a superb reach, flying along under the MPG (
a large multipurpose genoa) which had to be taken down in exchange of
goose winged yankie for the last 2 hours when the wind backed. Again a sea
breeze effect in late afternoon produced stronger wind for our
arrival.
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